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For the 120 loads are they fairly balanced across L1 - N & L3 - N or all on L1 or L3? Agreed with nextelcupfan. Freezer compressor startup draw many times the faceplate amps until it gets up to speed. The contacts in the AM-VM switch and/or the Phase/Voltage switch might be a bit corroded...

FYI. On my 802 the voltage at the slave port is usually 28 volts after a minute of running. Upon starting it's about 27.7 volts before it climbs up. The slave port is essentially connected to the batteries.

Sounds like there may be a short in the wiring from the breaker to the outlet or possibly a bad FL1. You might want to remove the wire from the breakers B (Load) terminal and see if it still trips.

The aftermarket Voltage Regulator appears to be an ADVR-053. The ADVR-053 has been superseded by the ADVR-054 and appears a bit different than the -053. Oshkosh sold a kit using that module to replace the exciter. ---> Oshkosh Kit Here is a schematic of how their kit was wired in. It included...

An inverter charger can do it. The LIFEP04 batteries I have now each have an internal BMS. I use an external balancer to keep the batteries balanced. LIFEP04 are available that have internal heaters so that the batteries can be used in subfreezing environments. Mine are in the basement so I...

I'd strongly suggest using LIFEPO4 batteries and not lead acid. I've run my solar panels, charge controller and inverter for over 7 years now and am on my 3rd battery bank. First battery bank was comprised of 12v flood acid batteries in 48 volt configuration. Lasted about 2 years. Second...

The original thermocouple wires were probably much longer and the two wires were twisted and welded at the tip. Looks like they chopped most of the wire off and just twisted the wires together and inserted them in the hose. Here's a picture of one of my thermocouples showing the weld at the tip.

Looks like a thermocouple probe

The engine RPM can oscillate if the governor droop adjustment is cranked up too high.

Also watch relay K15 to be sure it's not moving while the se is running. The contacts should be in the not activated position.

I'd suggest checking the connections along the path of F+ & F- from the VR to the Exciter to be sure there isn't a poor connection along the path. Be sure to check the connections in the gen head for the exciter too. They got to/from a pair of double male lugs on a small board. The path goes...

If you go to the TM section of the forum and go to the generators section you'll find the TMs for your set. The schematics are in the back of the Maintenance TM

Having the MPU disconnected prevents S14 from detecting that the engine has started. With that case the starter won't be disabled automatically and the gen head field won't get flashed. A good hardware store should have those crimp on connectors.

Link to the classifieds listing ---> Conversion Kit My email address is in the listing should you like further info. If send me your email address I can send you PDFs of the conversion instructions. Kurt

alte sells good stuff. Purchased all my solar components from them.

For insurance reasons be sure the breaker is UL listed. If it isn't and they may not pay on a claim.

Probably something wrong downstream. You'll certainly find out after you r er place them and if they blow again. Normally the fuses don't blow unless something is seriously wrong with the inverter. I've torn into a few that had some seriously burnt components and one with holes burned thru the...

I'd suggest hooking you voltmeter to meter M7 terminal I. The I should be embossed in the case of the meter by the terminal. Connect the meter negative to chassis ground. There is a ground stud on the right corner on the front panel. Start the set and monitor the voltage on that M7 terminal...

Looks like you're not getting adequate 24 volts from S10 to the front panel area due to a poor connection. It's likely an issue with the connection of P7 to J7. The 24 volts from S10 flows thru pins P7-14 and J7-14 on its way to S17. I'd suggest you disconnect P7 from J7 and examine the pins...

From your description I'd suggest the following... 1) Put the Dead Crank Switch (S10) in NORMAL, Emergency Off Switch (S17) Pulled OUT and Circuit Breaker CB1 pushed in 2) Attach your hand held meters ground lead to chassis ground. 3) Put the Master Switch (S1) to the Prime/Run position. 4)...