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Thanks. There are a few bars that all look very similar. I watched a few more YT videos and was able to make the bar I have, work.
It'll go faster now that I understand the process.
Hey all,
I'm looking to break down some NDT's.
It looks like there are 2 tools to remove the locking ring.
I have 33224 T23B. I need the tool that fits into the notch on the ring so I can pry it out of the groove. Does anyone know the proper number for that?
It seems that I'll be compelled to buy a gallon jug of liquid or a large tub of paste, so I don't want to buy a lifetime supply of the wrong thing.
Which do you guys prefer- paste or liquid? Any favorite brands? Any brands to steer clear of?
Quick question:
Once the run-flat is inserted, which way is the tire mounted on the inner (larger) wheel piece?
The run-flat is asymmetric, having a large lip on one side. Which way does that lip face when mounting the tire on the wheel?
Thanks!
Took the M813 for a maintenance jog yesterday.
I ended up stuck behind an elderly couple in a Mercedes SUV. They were poking along at speeds well under the speed limit. I watched traffic piling up in my rearview mirror and I'm dead certain that everyone was "blaming the ugly military truck at...
Somewhere, way back in this thread a few people reported brake line failures on M809 trucks near the transfer case.
Since it was more than one person reporting on the same place/same failure, I crawled underneath with a flashlight and just manually traced everything. No defects that I could...
Thanks, I'll do that. I'm not even certain that I have a problem. I just thought I heard a noise.
I found a pretty good hour long video of a complete hub reassembly. It requires some tools that I don't have, such as a travel indicator, dial indicator.
I might have some growling from the front passenger hub. It's difficult to hear over the engine.
This is an old, M998 with 7k axles. When I bought the truck, I got into the hubs and verified that all of the spindle nuts were tight and lock washers firmly engaged and tabs peened down. I broke...
Ok, got 'er did. That wheel had too many rusty spots.
I got the next wheel apart using every trick you guys gave me- lube, flipped over on a bucket, carefully working the perimeter until it popped free. It was rust-free and holding air but the tire was bald and checked. Now I have a tire with...
Cheeze and rice. Replaced the O-ring with no problem, followed the TM in properly torquing down the wheel half and it still leaks.
There is a rusty spot on the outer (top?) wheel half right where the O-ring rides and I knew it was a risk that it would no longer seal. I guess it's toast. I'm...
It was definitely grungy. I've done one wheel so far and you're right, it came apart easily. This is my second wheel and I was surprised at how stuck it was. I have a 3rd wheel that I'm going to do. No idea what will happen.
I hosted a beach party for my old unit this weekend. We parked my 5-ton and HMMWV at the beach with some unit memorabilia for nostalgia/trauma.
Everyone thought it was great and had a good laugh.
Went a little overkill, but got the job done.
A friend showed up for a weekend visit driving a semi tractor. He left his tank trailer at the company lot. His semi has a cow catcher/push bar on the front. We strapped the tire to the cow catcher and then I hooked a tow strap to a couple of bolt...
Ok, so the half of the wheel must be "pulled" off as people do when they use an engine hoist. Cheeze and rice.
How did military mechanics do it? I doubt the engine hoist method was approved procedure.
My bead breaker tool shipment was lost. I'm waiting for a refund.
The M998 manual specifically says "Do not use a tire machine" on these wheels.
Can a shop use the bead breaker part of the machine, only? I'm talking about just the hydraulic wedge that pushes the bead straight down, not using...