Search results

I don't really see anything controversial in your post. Your "Plan B" is my maintenance plan. I'm not willing to risk damage to my cylinder liner seals using something new and green coolant is inexpensive. I use a test strip once per year to check it out.

My observation is that the simpler models are more reliable. Anecdotally, it's stuff like the 4LE80 and it's control module that cause problems. I think I read that the 6.2L engines and some 6.5L engines had some deficient block castings that got better later. I really agree with the statement...

Negative. My truck was re-engined by the Marines in 2005. It received a 6.5L with v-belts and they left the 3spd in place.

OK, I got 'er did. NAPA had sections of steel line with the correct ferrule for $10. I used my handheld tube bender to give it contours similar to the factory tube. Engine started with no purging or troubles. I appreciate all the advice.

The kits for the M813A1 and 900 series trucks work but the cord tie-downs on the cover don't quite line up with the tie-down points on the M54 and M813. It's a trivial matter as some of the tie-down points pull on the rope at odd angles, just an FYI.

You might also check with the Florida Military Vehicle Heritage Group. They have a Facebook page, and maybe a website.

Ok, tank is fully removed. I've removed the crushed section of metal fuel line. Hopefully I'll have the section made tomorrow. I should expect to have to purge air from the fuel system after all of this? I've read the procedure and even found an old Army training video but I haven't actually...

Hm, I do have a Colliflower shop that does this. Good point.

It's an early M998 that has been re-engined with the 6.5l but kept the 3-speed TH400. To my eyes, the fuel tank is original. The truck has the driveshaft parking brake which means the tank is the early style.

I could use some assistance interpreting this parts drawing. Basically, I want to purchase the two metal fuel lines coming directly from the fuel tank. These connect to rubber sections a little further upstream which then possibly turn into metal sections again if I interpret the diagram...

Ok, I got the fuel tank free. The fuel fill stub was just hung up on the frame. A gentle twist and it dropped down. I was right- Somehow the metal fuel line sections got pinched between the front fuel tank strap and the transfer case. Years of jostling and chafing ate a 2-3mm hole in the metal...

Ok, so the rear of the fuel tank should drop down. It's hung up on something or I'm just being too gentle with it. It was hung up on the short rubber hose that the fuel fill pipe connected to but I removed that and it's noticeably more free but still won't quite drop down. I know the tank will...

The drive shaft is removed. I think I'm just not wiggling this thing quite right.

Ok, I have the TM and I've disconnected everything the manual calls for but this tank won't quite come out. We're talking the old style fuel tank. I've removed the driveshaft to make life easier even though the TM didn't say to do it. Which end typically releases first, the front or the rear...

I have a minor fuel drip when the fuel tank is over half full. It appears to be coming from the 3 lines that go to the top of the tank. I think they may be chafed. I've just about got the fuel tank removed. This is the older style with the shaft line disc brake. The manual does not say to do it...

Took the M813 out for her monthly maintenance jog. She go real good. I drove longer and farther than normal. Running through a manual gearbox is cathartic. Driving the Lezburu to work every day is a soulless exercise. Anyway, the truck is flawless. All fluids good, brakes are excellent and it...

Lol, my appetite (and bank account) isn't big enough for more than one.

You...did doughnuts in an 8x8WD tanker truck??

How often do you need to do this? Months? Years? Miles?

That thing looks like a toy next to your MTVR. Surely you didn't buy it as a recovery vehicle in case the MTVR poops out?