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Yes, that is a thin sheet metal baffle. The next time I am in the shop I will take another picture now that I have the timing chain cover off.

Today I had some time to remove the oil pan, timing chain cover and replace the rear main seal. The rear main seal was made of felt and crumbled to oily dust in my hands. The inside of the engine is immaculate!

Had some time over this weekend to clean up the shop and get started on disassembly and cleaning to reseal the engine. The inside of this engine is showing no wear and is very clean.

Good catch. There 12 in the bag. I have one on top and bottom of each bolt.

I really liked your write up. I have followed all the steps for mounting so far. I am ready to start putting all the bumper brackets on loosely. I made two bolt location changes that I think will work better for me. I drilled out the outboard rivet holes and used 1/2” bolts. Then I drilled two...

I wonder… maybe I can get a C-clamp on where the captive nut is and squeeze the sides enough to back out the bolts?

Cool. Thank you. I won’t be able to use that idea though. I had the floor pans replaced and the welder was not the best at restoration welding. He did not weld the pans back to the supports. I am going to try using 1/4” square rod. I will bend a piece long enough to reach past the captive nut...

Thank you! I had not thought of the flap idea.

Happy Sunday! I am in need of some visual assistance please. I am in the process of changing all 6 body mounts on my M1031. The left front under the radiator support was coming apart. On the passenger side I am not able to remove the bolts under the cab. I believe the nut inside the cab...

I did have some success on my dad’s 06 rabger. He wanted bigger mirrors. I found some for a 2000 gmc sierra at the local yard. We made adapter plates to mount them. Much better view bow! Before Created a template and the brackets

Well, here I am, having the most fun ever! I have some body mount bolts that are spinning. I guess the solution is to cut a hole in the floor to get access? What about the bolts at the back of the cab? How do I get access to them? thanks everyone!

Sir, it looks new again. From every angle and every view it is once again a new M1009. You have created a new M1009. I enjoy looking at the work you have done, it inspires me to try harder.

I was going to set it up with a remote oil tank with inline filter and an electric pump.

I was going to do that to my 96 Ranger 5.0 but life had other ideas.

Has anyone ever considered running a single exhaust and plumbing in a remote turbo from the rear? Just asking…

Oh the things we do to make things work! my engine hoist worked great when I swapped in a 5.0 on my 96 Ranger. But on an M1031, I needed to be a bit more creative without removing the radiator support. The hoist is at full extension in the pics. That was fun! now to clean up and reseal the...

Not sure what the unknown connector is. The brown wire with the rubber head on it goes to the brake sensor (cannot remember the correct name for the part) under the radiator on the crossmember.

Good evening. A question for the collective. I have an 86 M1031, 16 k miles. Currently resealing the transfer, transmission and the engine. The only issue for the IP is that it has is leakage at the external seals. If the engine is running well at all speeds and idle should I have the IP...

Evening All, lots of little things accomplished this afternoon. 8 more bolts and the engine comes out. All the wiring is disconnected from the engine, fuel filter housing is removed. Vacuum line to the trans has come out. Oil lines are disconnected from the engine. All that remain are 6...