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The Spicer 3052 and 3053A transmissions do indeed have the input gear made onto the input shaft. And yes the Waterloo overdrive kit is unfortunately out of production.

Very happy the videos help so many people.

We've all been there, with help or not. It's easy to mess up the order op. Don't worry about it just do it over again the right way and you'll be fine.

An invaluable resource for you to do these repairs will be Tactical Repair on YouTube. A lot easier when you can see it being done.

No, that's real. Just don't see many, if any that haven't been bypassed already these days.

The only three sources for this are the flame heater, hydraulic head o-rings, and the boost pump seal.

Now I'm wondering if it wasn't just the line, but maybe the distribution block and air pack fitting are distorted from being overtightened also? Not sure what to tell you, other than just try to tighten them a bit more.

Getting at the detent isn't bad. It's probably just gummed up. This video is kinda long but shows how to do it.

You need to find the number 10 wire under the hood. It has to be there somewhere in the vicinity of the starter and relay, or at the very least there will be a cut off nub of wire close to where the harness tape ends if someone cut it off to use on something else. It's a 14 gauge wire that feeds...

As old as these trucks are, pretty much all of them need new engine and transfer case mount bushings anyway. Probably not the noise in this case, but not a bad idea to replace them. They're cheap.

With the dash out, inspect the harness carefully. Pay particular attention to wires near connectors and in places where the harness is bent, folded, or rubs on anything. You probably have the #10 wire broken inside the insulation somewhere, or the insulation is missing near a connector and...

I've had this issue a few times and normally if you vigorously flip the switch on and off a few times while holding the start button or switch it'll start working. Yes, it most likely is the contacts in the master switch failing.

Should work, but if not you don't really need it anyway. Turn master power on, start the truck, turn master power switch off to save battery and drive that way. You don't need gauges or lights to get you home. Don't drive at night.

Usually when that happens it just rings all the teeth off and you completely lose gears. That's been my experience anyway. Still, worth a look. May be worn and getting ready to come apart.

Yeah, I recall there being one or two P clamps holding the line to the frame up behind the air pack that are pretty difficult to get at. It's been a few years though and I might be remembering incorrectly. The connection at the splitter isn't terrible to get at, but be sure to hold the block...

You'll either have to be a little creative to get at it, or pull the pack back off. I can get to it, but we don't all have the same size hands and forearms.

I'd pull the inspection plate off the bottom of the bellhousing first and inspect the throwout bearing, fork, and clutch as well as you can. If you don't see anything obvious then pull the transmission tunnel and pop the top cover off the transmission and have a look inside. Maybe take a good...

Or do what I experienced in the very beginning of this thread and just drop some pieces of wood cut to the length of extension he needs down into the stave pockets so the staves sit up higher.

Glad to help. That's the whole reason I made the channel.

Not sure if I have any pics on this phone. I'm in Korea, and have been for nearly five years now. Let me do some looking and I'll post it if I find something. * Edit* Found some pics, but nothing close up of the labels. If you zoom on one pic you can sort of read the label.