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The compressor on my 5.9L is a 13.7 cfm capacity unit, 100% duty cycle, liquid cooled, which is comparable to my shop compressor but with a much higher duty cycle. Runs my air tools without issue.

The ball joint style are your best option. They're available from Big Mike's for about $100 each, but you can expect them to last longer than you have the truck. If you grease them regularly, I'd wager a guess at a 25- 30 year service life on a truck driven often. They should also reduce axle...

N= Newtons??? Not sure.

If you've tried all that and you still have a leak, it's safe to say that you have a hairline crack in the hydraulic head there, most likely in the threaded area. I've run across this a few times. Only leaks going down the road because the pressure and vibration is higher and faster.

Keep us updated on how it holds up. There is a lot of lateral pressure on the input bearing, and even the stronger 9 ball bearings do fail. I haven't a clue what your bearing is rated for, but I'm genuinely interested in seeing what kind of longevity you get out of it. Do you put a lot of miles...

Sounds like something in the governor is sticking or worn and its unable to compensate for such a large and quick deviation. I've had this issue before a few times. Sometimes it just does it because of air in the fuel supply side. A small air leak will do it, or having recently opened the fuel...

I saw your thread and I'm going to do exactly that. Very helpful thread.

That's great advice and I normally do that Gary. Problem is that I've been in Korea for the past five months. I think the plunger stuck before because the fuel had just gotten too old.

I'm actually in Dry Creek over on Hwy 394, so closer than you thought. You know the place with the big blue shop and the military trucks? That's me.

Yes, they are these same correct part number. When it dies I can open the petcock on the final filter and the pumps speed up and are giving good pressure.

I think I'm going to do that. Was hoping to get it fixed before I have to go back to Korea, but it doesn't look like that's going to happen. Probably going to be without power here for another month and the gas generator goes through about ten gallons a day, not even running all the time.

If it does restart hot, it's only barely. It takes a lot of cranking and then it'll only run for about ten seconds before dying again. Won't restart at all after that. Light or no puffs of smoke from the exhaust. I haven't checked pump voltage or fuel pressure.

4770s are great. Here's what I did.

Won't be in the manuals. Like he said, this is an aftermarket addition. You'll have to trace the lines yourself.

Oh, here's another. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLp1oqEXZZEvD5MsycbwuqyTd63oYdcM9V

This may help. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLp1oqEXZZEvDCN5gNKRb7zzITsSTsIJEa

That's definitely been modified. A pocket was machined out for the seal and that collar was welded on to provide lateral support for the snout since there is less material in that area inside now. We always knew it could be done, but the lack of strength after machining the pocket was always the...

I think so too. Look 5 posts above, 9 minutes ago I posted a rundown of everything I've done over the past few days, but forgot to mention I put new batteries on it too.

Did you figure out why it won't run without the electric pump running? It should run all day with the entire electrical system shut off, including the in tank pump.

Does it without the cap on.