Search results

For the record, I've never changed any of the original fittings when installing synflex. BUT.. you do have to get the right compression ferrules, which aren't as long. There's two types of ferrules. One is tapered like a sharp cone on each side with a pronounced rib in the center ( this one...

Yeah, that's me in the videos. There's a bolt on maxi type brake chamber that takes the place of the sngle pot pods. If I remember correctly that's why I made the second video, because after the first one a friend sent me a link to them.

So here's a video of my first test drive after my Cummins swap. Bear in mind I also have a Waterloo overdrive kit and 11.00R20 G177s installed. I have also GPS verified a top speed of 89-90 mph but I don't have that on video. I don't want to hijack this thread, so this'll be my last post about...

For many years I've seen people claim that you can't remove jackshaft bolts with an impact wrench. I'm here today to refute that statement, as I've been doing it for years. It's easier with a very strong 3/8" impact, but absolutely doable with a 1/2" impact and the proper technique. Simply...

I had similar idea. Check this out.

First of all, make sure your pedal return spring is present. If that isn't it, consider overhauling the master cylinder ( maybe again) . If the vent is clear, thus can only happen if 1: the fluid ports in the reservoir are blocked with debris. 2: the piston return spring is weak, or 3: the...

Yeah, unless you're in my M35A2..😂 Documented 90mph.

All the fuel line upstream of the boost pump is either 3/8" or 1/4" . Just use DOT air line and compression ferrules with inserts. If it didn't seal you got something wrong. Check out some of my YouTube videos on this on tactical repair channel on YouTube.

Man.... I had forgotten about this thread until someone liked one of my posts on it today. So here's what happened. My whole relationship and life fell apart and I had to get rid of this truck and the majority of everything else I had at the time. Let's just say cheating women suck.. I never...

I'm not sure that's a flaw. They're all like that. Perhaps it's for ventilation without the truck running, Perhaps it's for defrost with the arctic heater or coolant heater installed, or maybe the master switch just isn't rated for enough amperage to support the blower motor and everything else...

No there are no fuses or fusible links at all. Some trucks have a circuit breaker on the firewall near the steering column in the engine bay. Either you have a broken wire, wire connector, or your power switch is bad.

I'd guess you popped a pinhole in the turbo to intake manifold boot, or blew part of an intake gasket out.

Did you finish this yet? I did this on my truck and made a bunch of videos on my channel about it. I can lend some advice if needed. I'll just go ahead and tell you now, for your front axle light all you need to do is run a 3 way splitter from your gauge cluster power wire and use that extra...

The Tactical Repair guy is me, just FYI. I was going to mention removing the whole cluster but you beat me to it. I replaced my defrost tubing with the entire dash out and it was still a pain just to get the tubing onto the inlet and outlet nipples. When removing the cluster in the future, sit...

Power is a bit irrelevant here since your top speed is limited by the final output ratio of the transmission. You can have 600 hp but you'll just get to 45mph faster.. You can install some taller tires ( 395s) to push up maybe to 50, but after that you need to either look into a transmission...

No way I'd ever condone this outside of a truck that never leaves your yard/ acreage. The brakes aren't great to begin with. Just try stopping it without air pressure and you'll forget about this.

Seriously, stop overthinking this. Just go grab a bucket of red Mystik JT-6 and you'll have what you need for two full truck hub and knuckle services, and you won't have any issues out of it.

Take a look at your main battery ground connection at the frame behind the battery box. They have a habit of breaking off just from vibration. Yours may have been just barely hanging on and broken off if you moved the batteries or cables at all. If it's not that, check power at ( if memory...

A lot of our HMMWVS and MRAPs have infrared driver's viewing equipment installed now, which is a screen inside meant to be used in lieu of actually looking out the windshield with night vision. I've actually seen some of these systems posted for sale in various Facebook groups recently for quite...

I'm not around, but my price has always been $ 75 per hub, plus whatever parts and grease, brake cleaner, etc. at no markup. That's for rears. Front hub/ knuckles are $125 each labor. So basically $ 250 for the front end and $300 for the whole rear, labor only. Parts will probably come in around...