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Fuel lever may just be stuck. Pull the shutoff cover and check.

It's funny to see this, because it was overhauled where I'm working now.😄

Alright, now you can start turning your fuel up. Never a good idea to do tuning with bad components in the system. I can't remember at the moment if the MW pump has a fuel plate like the P7100 does ( it's very late and I'm very tired), but that's where I'd start.

I'm not sure. A flat type pan from a generator application wouldn't be good for road use even if available. Most I've seen have really strange dual sump pans with protrusions in odd places.

You could, but the only benefit there is if you have an engine that consumes enough fuel that you need larger feed hose and dual inlet ports to the injection pump, along with a much higher performance fuel supply ( lift) pump. There is no conceivable instance where anyone would benefit from...

You've Basically advanced your injection timing, which raises cylinder pressure a lot, especially on these engines. You'll certainly blow a headgasket in short order. I'd suggest doing a retorque now.

Basically it's the whole banjo bolt that connects the fuel return line to the injection pump. It has a small wire spring in it and a ball bearing and seat that act as a pressure relief valve. They're very susceptible to corrosion and wear. This bleeds off internal fuel feed pressure in the pump...

You could just pull the fuel shutoff all the way and lock it, then spin it with the starter a bit at a time until it builds pressure. That preservative oil stays on the internal parts pretty well.

To import the KM450 it only has to be 25 years old or older to be exempt from EPA regulations and FMCSA stuff. I'm not sure the Kia military trucks were being made that long ago.

There is no adapter geared for the tire size you want to run.

Replace your overflow valve. A poor condition overflow valve is the #1 cause of low power on an engine equipped with a P7100, P3000, or MW type pump.

Yeah you got it off by one tooth advanced instead of retarded. Not hard to do that when the mark isn't painted and your lighting is poor. It's happened to me a couple times too.

The length isn't so much the problem. As long as you don't want to run an air to air intercooler, it'll fit. The problem with the 466 swap in a deuce is the oil pan to axle clearance .

The overflow valve is actually the banjo bolt that threads into the fuel return port for the fuel return hose on the side of the pump.

I haven't gone back to read the rest of this thread. Been a long time since I looked at it. I was thinking you were doing that to get more power, but now it seems like you must just be doing it for testing purposes. My apologies.

The barrel to body seals in that pump won't hold 300 psi. Just to be clear; you're talking about feeding fuel to the pump inlet at 300 psi in oder to maximize fuel intake to each plunger when the spill port opens, correct?

If you haven't done so already, replace the overflow valve on the pump. They are notorious for failing and causing low fuel manifold pressure. All it is is a banjo bolt with a spring and ball bearing inside. The spring breaks or the ball gets pitted and they leak pressure by. Look for a Torktec...

It was just a thought. That's the thing about these forums, is we all have seen different problems cause things, which is how we can come together and help people diagnose their failure. I'm glad you're all sorted out now.

Yes! But how has it been difficult to get into reverse? Is it physically difficult to place into gear, or has it been grinding while going into reverse? This could be two different issues entirely.

I'd almost be willing to bet that you had a combination of things happen. The slack that you have certainly isn't correct, but that shouldn't have kept you from getting it into 1/R. I'm betting that your park brake stuck hard and you were in just the right place that you couldn't get your gears...