Search results

You may want to go through and torque check all the rest now too. It was part of every annual and bi-annual service when the trucks were in use.

Man, if I was home I still have the box from when this originally happened. I'd gladly get you the part number. Unfortunately I'm on the other side of the world right now.

I'm sorry to see so many have had poor results with this on my advice. I've still not had any issues yet from mine, but it is a different engine. I figured a filter with a higher flow rate couldn't possibly be a problem just because the engine was different. After all, they are just giant air...

I filled my u-bolt pockets with plasti-dip. Easy to pour in with no air pockets.

I'm using the 7" filter.

I put quite a few miles on mine. Granted, I am running the 5.9L, but I've seen no negative effects. Did you remove the hump that is spot welded into the bottom of the canister? Try it with the can removed. I'm firmly of the belief that the canister is restricting flow to the face of the filter...

I had the same school of thought for a long time, but vibration cracks them and you end up with leaks in strange places where nothing is touching.

Actual pictures, both of one equipped on a truck and another unit mounted on what was clearly a 10k Garwood. The visual differences in the two winches are clear to the trained eye.

I could swear I'd seen pictures of them posted on here before, but years ago.

Bushings were probably a repair done at depot. You do need some slop in the lever. If you tighten it up to where you have no slop, it'll pop out of gear when you turn or when going over bumps sometimes as the frame flexes.

Yes they came on the front winch on some of the 2.5 ton wreckers. Very, very rare.

The small bridge that retains the fuel lever under the shutoff cover; you tightened the screws just a hair too much. That's why the idle won't come back down consistently. Pull the shutoff cover off and back one of the screws off just a hair and see if the lever frees up. Moving it by hand now I...

My swap has been done for about a year now. I've driven it plenty and I couldn't be more pleased with it. Updating your current engine to the LDS specs will be an improvement, but not nearly like the Cummins swap. For the money and time you spend to update and overhaul your LDT, you can buy a...

Certainly better off selling it and buying a better engine. Engine swaps are a lot of work, and any novelty of having the multifuel in that Ford would wear off quickly when you start driving it and then start having engine problems. An engine swap is worth doing if you use an engine that isn't...

That's a lot of work to put into a multifuel, but it looks great.

Johnny joints are meant to be mounted in double shear bracketry, so you'd also need to fabricate new mounting points. Very large rebuildable joints like this are already available on the market.

I didn't know that. Big Mike's Motorpool and Rapcoparts.com are the official sponsors of my YouTube channel, and they're all I use. They take good care of me and my viewers, so they of course have my preference. No intention of downing any other companies.

You'll probably find that your compressor is around 7-10 cfm. There will be a higher output compressor available for your engine that is direct bolt on for a scenario where your engine is used in a road tractor that needs a lot more air.

You won't be sorry. I have a video on removing them easily without any special tools on my channel if you need help.