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I have been trying to figure out a way to run and stop the engine without electricity as well. Keep the ideas coming.

As I wrote in my reply a few post up. The switches degrade over time and the best thing to do is add one of these kits: https://www.lmctruck.com/1973-91-chevy-gmc/cc-csb-heavy-duty-power-window-harness

If you switch from the direct drive starter to a reduction drive you have to get a new support bracket. Here is a video I did showing the different starters and brackets: I have success using a 1/4” drive socket set with about a 6” extension to loosen the wire holding nuts while the starter...

Since no M1009 came from the factory with power windows. Several questions: Did someone just swap in the mechanisms or entire doors? Have you ever lubricated the rollers inside the doors? How are they wired into the stock fuse panel? If entire doors were swapped and the wiring looks decent...

The trailer brake controller was added by someone. I suggest you start by tracing the wires for it. Fix or remove any faults you find. Once that is fixed or removed. The -20 TM troubleshooting section will walk you step by step what to check, test and fix in the proper order.

Stock is spring under the axle.

Yes, you are missing the clutch.

I was so caught in thinking about his 12 volt conversion that I didn’t mention the diamond shaped part. What the manual calls the Engine harness block. thanks for reminding me. Here is a video I made a few months ago about it:

A sudden off and then back on for no apparent reason almost always points to a loose or corroded connection. I suggest you start with removing each battery terminal, cleaning it and putting it back on. Do both ends of all 4 battery wires. Use sand paper, scuff pads, nail files or just a...

Nice progress. My forest service survivor had a very similar looking wiring mess. Since David linked in his video channel. I might as well do the same. Here is one of mine about the forest service hard top and some options: Don’t you just love having icicles on your truck after a wash?

I have been burned by that situation as well. I have also been burned the other way. Not running vehicle well below market value with what I think is a simple fix. Everything I see looking at the vehicle supports my preconceived theory. I don’t dare mention it or attempt the fix until the...

The multifuel engine will pull start with amazingly little effort or speed. Getting pulled in 1st low range will generate speeds up to around 5 mph when on the throttle and as long as you have a good sized flat spot. The truck will drag itself a stop pretty quickly. So, pull starting can be done...

Glad you got it right.

Glad I’m not the only one overlooking it.

Life cones at you fast. I think that is a line for a commercial or something. But it sure is true. I went looking for this thread and was amazed it has been 3 months since I posted to it. I have more reasons to confirm that I am an idiot. When I built the truck I didn’t have a crack free...

I like your gauges.

There is a gasket between the IP and the timing cover. That might be preventing the movement. It will move if all 3 nuts are loose.

Does the engine run good? If so, don’t stress too much about those 2 cylinders. Yes, they are below spec but unless it is the head gasket. You probably won’t feel the difference.

Pouring a cap full of oil into the cylinder through the glow plug hole and then doing a compression test will boost the psi if it is rings. No boost and it is valves or head gasket.

A universal swivel 15mm 12 point socket and a long extension will let you get to the drivers side IP hold down nut snaking it through the intake runners. The passenger side and top nut can be accessed with a regular box end wrench. I always just use the throttle cable bracket to move the IP...