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OK, I didn’t catch that in your first post. With a cold engine, try pulling all 3 belts off. Start it up and see if the humming and harmonic are still there. You can run and rev the engine for about 3-5 minutes without the water pump doing its thing. The stock air filter also makes an annoying...

You only mention speeds and engine as the cause. How is your transmission mount? I had a loose one in a truck that caused a bad harmonic at 50-60 mph. Are the front hubs un locked and have you verified they are unlocked by turning the front drive shaft and watching both axle shafts spin...

It might not start. But, damage wise at idle. No damage will result. Just do all of your IP turning with the engine off. I would also suggest warming the engine up before you do any moving of the IP. Eliminating the glow plug system from the starting equation.

Exactly! Here is a video I did about using an Ohm meter to check plugs out of the engine. You will get the idea:

Glad it got it chug chug chugging again.

My 6.2 powered M715 did that to me one day. I was low on fuel and it died when I was going down hill. The starter was enough to get it primed and running again on flat ground. The nearest fuel station was up hill though. I didn’t make it up the hill and the batteries couldn’t spin the engine...

When the 6.2 IP is running out of fuel the engine actually speeds up at idle for 5-20 seconds in my experience. A 1028 has a single 20 gallon rectangular shaped tank with the pick up in the middle. 1/8 tank on the gauge is pretty much on “walk.” Slight up or down truck angle or constant...

This is like asking what oil you should run in your engine. You will get lots of opinions. Just do it the way you want and are comfortable with. My opinion is that I don’t like pressure washers on engines that are going to be run again. I love pressure washers on engines coming apart. I like...

The -20 TM on page 2-69 says to unplug at the sensor with the key on and to ground it. If the light goes out then the sensor is bad. If the light doesn’t go out then you are supposed to remove the low coolant module near the fuse panel. If the light goes out then replace the module. If it...

Yes.

Another vote for the energy suspension mounts. You will feel more vibrations at idle in gear with a cold engine. But, everything stays in its place all the time which is good.

Yes, just looking at it one would think the timing was way retarded. I have done a couple of videos about this because it comes up a lot. Here is an intro about the marks and methods of checking the timing: Here is one where I go through the same thing on a running engine: Watch the...

People have put the M35 winch onto M715 trucks and used basically motorcycle chains and gears with some pillow blocks in the shaft to connect the down low shaft to the high up winch input. Putting an M35 winch on backwards would get the drive end on the passenger side. It is just straight...

At this point, leave the pink wire hooked up. Air is already in there. With every thing hooked up, crank while counting to 20. Stop for a minute or two, repeat until it coughs which if this is your problem. Should be about 40-80 seconds of cranking. You will want to keep cranking when it coughs...

You wrote about bleeding the fuel, then the fuel filter swap. Do you mean you did bleed the new filter with the pink wire unplugged? Then it hasn’t started since? If that is the sequence then some air might have gotten in. That seems to always happen with me as well. I have found 45-90 seconds...

Are you by chance talking about the proportioning valve on a cross member under the radiator?

The return spring is pretty strong on those things. Once your foot takes up the slack at the throttle. everything should be tight and good.

All of mine have a lot of slop there and only have the cable end with a clip to hold it on.

I did. We were discussing Gasser trucks of the late 1940’s and early 1950’s. I have two REO M35 trucks and an AM General truck. I know others made them.

M34 and M35 were REO products. Totally different from the GM M135 and M211. I don’t think there are any common parts outside of the light switch and wire ends.