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I have a wtec2 trans harness to cab pass thru like in the pic with the vim. Dont have any vims right now. Maybe mv555 does. Thats actually my pic.

From my experience, the slip joints wear out from highway driving. With the 2-1 hub reduction at 58mph those driveshafts are really humming away. Once you get play in the driveline you run the risk of throwing a driveshaft. This happens way more often than one would think. The manual has a...

Before you go any further. I would get the serial off the transmission, call allison and verify what gen control it is. 1998s were usually wtec3. So your wtec2 controller may not work.

They have made alot of odd variants over the years. Somewhere on your truck will be an air to hydraulic brake converter. I would think the abs light could be related to the wheel issue. It looks like oil dripping down. Do you have air brake cans on your front wheels also or is it just hydraulic...

I believe some a1 lmtvs had some sort of hydraulic front brake setup. You may have this.

The one time I saw a bad speed/key sensor the only symptom was no speedometer function. The truck shifted ok. The output speed sensor on the bottom of the trans will cause erratic shifting and jittery speedo.

You can take the old ones off and a hose shop can make you some nice new ones. They will have different grades of hose you can pick what you want.

There are rebuild kits available. Sometimes you can just clean it and use generic o rings.

Its a metal tube. I will look tommorrow I should have one.

I might have extra intake stuff. Which parts exactly do you need?

Nv555 might have some

Swapped one today. 4 terminals. 24v in and out, 12v in and out. The two alternator outputs are on the in terminals along with the battery leads. The outs go to the 12 and 24 volt going into the cab that bolt up to the underside of the power panel.

Plenty of replacement setups out there. Make your life easier. I would not attempt to solder that mess back together unless absolutely necessary.

Some of the places the harness snakes thru are tight. Just make sure the big bunch wont interfere

The wire is pretty stiff. You can try to solder and heat shrink each one. Not alot of slack in the dash to begin with though. You might try to find some similar wire to add in and stagger the repairs so you dont have them all bunched at one spot.

The output speed sensor on the bottom of the trans assembly you can find cheap like 69 bucks. The paddle one in the tail of the trans is around 800 bucks.

There is a separate sender in the tail of the trans that drives the speedometer separate from the output speed sensor. Looks like an old paddle key. If the 2 trans speed sensors dont jive together for some reason the ctis controller can show a false overspeed. Sometimes the controller can get...

Dont run means it dont run.

I dont have a torch. No other way for me to do it.