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When the air governor reaches full set pressure it sends an air signal to the compressor unloader to stop making pressure and it also sends the air signal to the air dryer to purge. I think its positive air but I am not 100 percent sure about it. Blow some air into the small line on your dryer...
I find them online in the 50 dollars range usually. If you have to order one from the manufacturer they are around 100. I have never tried servicing a tube with fins one. I had one of the service kits a while back. Big bag of beads, small filter and a bunch of gaskets and o rings if I remember...
The contract still requires 2 warehouses one east and one west. GP already has one east and one west as the contract required them to have. They cant just decide to change the contract requirements and open a 3rd main warehouse.
Front what I have seen. The tube with fins is a first gen dryer. The pure air plus on the m939 trucks is second gen and the purest type is the 3rd gen. The purest dryer definitely does a better job drying the air than the tube with fins and its alot easier to service. You still want to replace...
Have you made sure the polarity box wiring is connected correctly first? Make a temp jumper from 24v to the regulator excite terminal and see if it starts making power. The front red connection is the excite. The other regulator connection is a field sense. Dosnt need to be hooked up to function.
The reverse polarity box is a big diode array. You can test it with a multimeter that has a diode test function or when its in use you can measure voltage in and voltage out. It will drop around 1/3 of a volt at the output. If the polarity box was bad usually you wont have 12 and/or 24 volts at...
I have never seen a truck with the fuse links at the alternator. You would be able to verify outputs at the two alt terminals with a multimeter and then go from there. Without 24v at the regulator excite terminal the alt will just spin but not make power.
All the ones I have bought had the ac and dc power cable. The dc cable is just a long pigtail. If you look at the listing pics and see the two cables then you should be good. Slave connectors are a common item easy to get.
Alot of the lmtv spare parts end up at the yards where gov agencies like forestry and fire depts get their trucks. They all complained about parts cost and availability. If the part is on hand they can get it for a small service fee.
The wtec3 trans solenoid pack has some differences. First gen cab to trans harness is the same. Sometimes its just a harness in the trans to use with different gen control. I have a wtec2 trans here. You may be able to use the solenoid pack from the bad trans on the good trans.
Try owning a Mercedes S class or a BMW 7 series that’s out if warranty. It’s the same thing. 2000 dollar brake job. I needed a steering rack a month out of warranty it was 2500. Hit a pothole need a new rim and tire big bucks. Bigger toys cost big bucks to own.
Scott said he was having more made up. I remove the grill, unbolt both sides, start to raise cab just a bit and the front lifts enough to swap them. The key is doing them both at the same time. If you dont unbolt both the cab wont lift in the front.
I need to get some batts for mine. I was hoping to find something lithium ion or at least a bit more modern and lighter than old style gel cells. I don’t know if the internal charger will work with something different though.
I have never seen the compressor drive loosen up. The rear support bracket can come loose and cause damage to the front cover from the weight of the compressor and steering pump.
The two large terminals are 24v and the starter solenoid positive connection. When the relay engages it puts 24v to the starter solenoid and it cranks. The two smaller terminals are ground and a positive will come from the start relay in the dash panel when you press the start switch. Meter one...
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