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The data plate is it. One location. No other numbers. GL would wait till you had the vehicle in hand and you would verify the info and submit it to them for the paperwork. I just got a truck in the serial listed in the auction is completely different than the trucks actual serial. Its the right...
I take the bolts off the steering reservoir and let it hand loose. Disconnect all batteries. Label each starter wire and take a picture with your phone. One person on top one underneath for the final bolt removal and getting it out.
I called all of my local rebuild shops no one wants to know anything about a 24v starter. I believe there are some aftermarket options out there. The original is a cat part and big bucks.
The tank is in the pump. There is some fluid left in lines if you have a dry system you have to add more than the pump would normally hold. And yes an electric pump works just fine. You just need a button to activate it.
Thanks. A bit too far to have it towed for stashing. Been trying to find a hauler to get it back to CT. Was hoping someone had space close by where it is.
Black box is a lights breakout box. I would give it an 85 percent probability you have a toasted trans ecu from someone trying to jumpstart the truck. Unfortunately the voltage spike that causes that usually cooks the ctis controller at the same time.
Yes but the keypad would still light up. I have found the wtec3 computers are easily damaged with jump starting a truck with dead or no batteries. If you have power to the computer and no keypad display chances are the computer is toast. If the tps was bad and the display lit up you could run...
Run a temporary ground wire from the negative on the batteries to the ground on the pdp. And you can run one right to the ground strap coming off the starter going to the frame rail.
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