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If the cab latch is leaking you can unscrew the end cap on the latch its like 1 3/4 inch. There is a piston in there may take a pump or two to push it out once the cap is off and its usually just a bad o ring. You can use one from a generic multi kit. A good long extension like 2 feet will help...

Run a ground wire from the batt negative to the breaker panel ground see if that helps.

No one?

In the first gen truck troubleshooting for no start it has you ohm out one of the oil sensors. If it’s open then you don’t get a complete circuit to crank.

The wire harness has numbering on each wire leading to a plug. Write down each one before you disconnect. The manual should have a schematic showing where it all goes but it’s easier if you keep track of the connections yourself. I take pics with my cell camera as I am taking stuff apart too.

I usually pull the steering wheel if I need to get deep into dash work.

I have a M1078 in Whitehall Ohio. Non runner, driveshafts are already removed. Looking for someone who can towbar it out and stash it till Wes can get there and pick it up. Not looking for a freebie I will pay you. will atpawnking dotcom

Under the box to the right of the batt box, where the disconnect relay is, should be a manual disconnect switch. Reach under the box it turns.

I would check the load battery box behind the cab.

I have one here that some of the crane functions dont work. The manual dosnt seem to have crane function troubleshooting. It says refer to higher level maint.

Reverse the 2 connections at the top of the cylinder. it should come up with the down control

Did you try the manual pump? You dont have to go down all the way to go up. What rpm is the engine at?

I have a nos original one

I am pretty sure the c7 dash is an electronic bus and is controlled by the engine computer. I have seen a lot of ground issues in a wide variety of trucks. The main ground goes thru a current shunt so current draw can be measured for diagnostics. A little bit of corrosion and you get a bad...

I use all the broken window cranks its the same spline

I have had to hammer in a hardened torx bit and that did the trick.

You can call hdt they will email you the manual. They are simple units pretty much any hvac tech can figure it out.

Thats pretty neat. I have gone thru alot of voltmeters in various trucks.

Without the connection you will probably get a charge fault on the dashboard. I have seen alot of the polarity boxes go bad like that.

I would use the silicone stuff. It should be available at one of the big auto parts stores.