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I didn't see that you had the upper cover off and the hours on the genset in that post. If you think you have blow by from an exhaust valve going into your crankcase you'd need a new engine as it would have a hole in the head but then it would probably go into a water jacket not the crankcase...

I didn't see how many hours were on it...sometimes the wetstack can be blown out by going lower load than move it up slowly until it gets bogged then pop it down some until you can move it up so it won't bog...it should blow out after some hot run time. Pop some good cleaner in the fuel that...

I rebuild mine...bead blast the case and steel mount and pop new seals in it...pretty simple to do. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Rims are GOLD!!! We picked up a set just because we found them! Nice to have some extras or replacements however you look at it. They fit in the bead blaster so it's easy to get them cleaned.

Did you keep the mechanical lift pump or do an electric one? Could be, if it's mechanical, it's worn out and can't handle the volume anymore.

I like that trailer. I looked at a few to put my 320 shelter on but they didn't have the rear struts to support it. I didn't think of getting some and bolting them on to work like that. I think it is lower than a 1101?? Not sure. I found a guy up north pa that has 7 with the gensets on them...

Is it going into 3rd gear though? You can shift manually from 2 to 3 and feel the shift. If you were in the trans the fluid gotta be the right level. If your vacuum modulator was not working you won't get second until 35 plus mph.

So I tried that DIODE under the dash and it did nothing. It did measure a little different in diode check of 500 that was in there vs 450 of what I replaced it with. It did only work one way as designed as well. I tried a relay I had with no change but since it i easy why not. I am going to...

Haven't posted in a while and this time I actually have a problem that I am at a decision point to figure out. My alternator light 2 has been flashing very dim for about a year and could only see it at night. I never bothered with it since it charges fine. That all changed about a week ago...

I may have another answer for this. I just got 2 kits from asp wholesale to rebuild 2 more 27si alternators...I got the hardware kits with it...they have the front bushing in it. Pop your pulley off and give them a call and see if he has the correct thickness you need. Not sure why I didn't...

I had to go look at one of mine to remember but one of them were like that. I loosened the upper bracket on the intake, then the other bolt on the upper bracket I put a thin washer in between the bracket and block. The lower one I just removed the long bolt and used the same washer on the block...

I bought 3 last year nos from Saturn surplus in halifax pa...they were supposed to close but still selling. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Thanks for finding this!! I had no idea it was a thing. It does make sense for fluiddamper to make one damper then add a spacer for the older engines.

I have seen this before and it typically has air bubbles in the fluid from the initial start and/or it is over filled. Once it sits for a bit the air bubbles should go out and can fill it to the proper level.

You can do this in the opposite direction as well ...it'll tell you if you need to adjust the ip modulator or just swap the lines...start at the trans vacuum and work your way up. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Sure! You'll need a good vacuum gage...-0 to -25 in lbs tops...you'll hook that up to the modulator on the ip...I can't remember exactly on the top of my head which one...there's only 2 lines...if you get the wrong one though you'll see about 20 inlbs..normal is around 18 up to 25...make sure...

Can adjust the vacuum switch on the ip some or get an adjustable vacuum modulator for the trans...get more out of the ip adjustment though...doesn't hurt to have a vacuum gage hooked up to the output of the modulator and set it at 11 lbs. I set mine there and first shift is around 25 30 and 3rd...

You should be fine as long as you had coolant in it...I flushed mine using that, opened it some with a funnel on the radiator to keep it full...works good.

Ok I was wondering how you were turning a diesel engine by hand on the flywheel!! They are tight to do that once they hit compression. I've lost a bunch of knuckle skin on flywheels in the past. Did you pull a main cap to see if there is any scoring on the bearings or main journals? Can you...

So you can turn the engine using hands on the flywheel with no gloves? You replaced the starter? Any chance you got a 12 volt one? Where did you get it? What batteries are you using size wise....group 31s? If I could turn an engine with no gloves on a flywheel being locked up is something...