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That’s where the various opinions come into play. Some say nothing. I’m on that side. Others say it shortens that battery’s life due to inbalance. If one runs $100 group 31’s, I’d be fine with it, even if shorted life. Decision each makes.

My favorite topic. They do it by pulling 12v off one battery (bank). On the 939’s, this 12v circuit is even ran through the dash ignition switch, as to shut the heater blower off when keyed down. Factory, stock, approved design.

Cruise up. Yacht Club is open until 2a.

What’s that shop vac hose strung all over the place? Is that like one of those central vacuums in the old mansions, or maybe a money transfer tube from the drive-through bank?

I’m watching other posts to see which transfer case not to use.

Cute. You’re in rare form today, eh?

? No, it is not. Both specs says exactly same diameter. 2.37" OD (60mm).

Yes, add way more fuel to tank (more than 5 gallons). Primer will not work with air in the line unless it can flow. You'll need to crack open one of the bleed screws on the injection pump or hard line fittings going to the filter head, or spin the engine mounted fuel filter loose so it can...

The fuel stop solenoid will cut the engine off quickly. If it felt like it ran out of fuel, then it is likely a fuel delivery (suction side) issue. Suspect tank dip tube or failed soft lines on tank suction side to lift pump/filter. One member here suspects the overflow valve in his injection...

Is there fuel in the tank? I love when people post that question, and I’ve been waiting for my turn to do so, but it does have merit. Did it “feel” like it ran out of fuel (pedal slowly becomes non-responsive), or was it a hard engine cut like God shut the switch off? If you remove the fuel...

Congrats. Thanks for the follow up. Have you verified across several days of sitting?

That pulley looks same as the one I use and include. I don't think they make one smaller than that (?). Even that one, being as small as it is, may slip or at least squeak if the alternator is under full load, and the drive belt is wet. The smaller the diameter, the less belt wrap you have...

Plenty of threads here where the ABS light came on, then driver observes volt gauge pegged in red zone. Also several where the alternator would over-volt sporatically or temp related, until it finally went full-tilt full time. On this one I would suspect an alternator going out to lunch...

What does your volt gauge show during running?

I don’t think many left. I heard the turbine generators were for remote radar stations? Not sure. Regardless, the Solar turbine powered gensets are worth cash. The T-62 model turbine is highly sought after by the homebuilt helicopter crowd. I bought one for $300 and resold just the turbine...

Nothing wrong with adding a high powered DC-DC converter like OP is doing. I like the contactor for auto power off, just make sure it is continuous duty rated (like the one in our PCB for dash power). On the same token, and a lot of people have a hard time with this one, is that the stock...

Excellent news, thank you for following up on this. It is why I stress the age and/or condition of batteries is directly proportional to the energy balance of an alternator's output at idle, volt gauge needle position, as well as the fuel shut off solenoid extending during cranking on the 8.3L...

Aftermarket has adjustable ones as well. Tork is one company. Did you remove yours and test/inspect it? Cummins part number 3912886, $34. https://oregonfuelinjection.com/shop/heavy-duty/perkins-industrial-ag-and-marine/valve-ofv/ Free Cummins Quickserve online p/n and service manual:

http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=Cummins+8.3+overflow+valve The injection pump is independent of the engine type it is on. Follow what you are finding for the P-7100 on 5.9’s, and the MW pump on the 8.3L will be identical...

OK, good luck.