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Ip solenoid is under the intake cover (undo the latches and flip it open its near the blower wheel looks like a big can.
When exactly is it popping what position on the start switch? Does it instantly do it in that position?
Definitely the method i follow. It's rather refreshing being on the other side of the fence here. Normally I help advise people.
That's the best part of this place the wealth of knowledge and willingness to share.
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That is where the unknowns are most information I have is right out of the manual but despite my studies on it I am more of a Hands-On learner so until I actually get the components in my hands it's not all there I'm sure once I start taking it apart and following the timing procedure it should...
I'm sure it won't be too horrible, never done one before. The part that has me most concerned is the button setting.
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After some online searching I was able to find a shipper that was more reasonable, so hopefully I should have the whole thing within a few weeks. Then I get to play the song and dance of injection pump replacement.
Thanks to all for the opinions
I have the opportunity to get ahold of a mostly complete donor engine. Problem being it is 3000 miles from me and shipping is costly. What items would you all think should be pulled and saved?
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You absolutely need at minimum an interlock so that only one source may be active at one time.
The generator breaker in the panel is typically sized in a way to protect the wire. The generator breaker protects the generator from overload.
The other big thing to look at is grounding and...
on these units no, in other applications I have seen some alloys get stiff from excessive mechanical force (think of how a paperclip gets brittle form bending it several times)
2 wires for Volt sensing. 2 for field. Then there needs to be something to inject power to the field to start the head. That's where a resistor comes in. It sounds intimidating but it's quite easy.
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