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Breakers are typically thermomagnetic meaning that need a thermal event (overload) or magnetic event(sudden short) either way they react to current. The onboard breaker of the generator is a CT breaker it reads magnetic induction. Still current based. So unless you exceeded the current setting...
Thicker oil can work but it's a bandaid at best. Adding zinc Won't do much either. If I had to make a suggestion it would be to find a single weight oil and add a stabilizer like Lucas.
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Current transducer (or transformer) it's how the instrumentation measure current. The number of wraps changes the current multiple. Look for a block with wire wrapped through a hole
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Dry contact relays, coil is sourced from controller and Contacts from generator battery. Most are just paralleled, contactor open (breaker trip) is normally closed so I had to put that one in series.
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I did this on a 004 and in the simplest of terms I am emulating switch flips. Specifically the stop/run/start and circuit breaker. (Run, start, close, and not open)
Id imagine as long as you aren't manipulating the battle short circuit the safeties will still work (mine do).
In addition to...
You absolutely should have the set grounded. In your case if you aren't switching the neutral, (which is most cases) leave the generator neutral-ground bond open and tie the generator chassis to the ground bar in your panel ( should be 4 wire. L1 L3 L0(neutral) and ground. As for premature...
My pool does have a hot tub. It's essential to offset the geothermal ballast created by the magnetic Flux depending on the geosynchronous orbit of the nearest satellite.
It all depends on what you really want. I have a fully automatic standby unit for about 2500.
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Depends on deal hunting. Most of my control components were sourced on fleabay. New from manufacturer, it was close to 5k in equipment, but since I'm using the older generation of devices I was able to get all the stuff for about 1000. Also keep in mind that controls my generator, fault...
My set has been modified enough to the point where it's automatic. Power goes out for only about 8 seconds. I used a slc 500 plc to control it. My speed control is a throttle servo driven from 2 outputs, the speed is monitored by output frequency from a hz to 4-20ma converter to an analog input...
I believe the 002 and 003 has a mechanical governor. Well. More of a compensator.
I dont mind helping others with similar projects, the parts can get pricy though.
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Yes. And my 004 is governor controlled (ok. I do controls for a living and was left unsupervised, but hey it's really really cool!)
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It's how you retap a 12 lead wye head to single phase 120/240 split phase. If you draw the windings out it looks like a zig zagging line
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I have a 004 at home and it's overkill. I did the zig zag conversion to it and last load banking it ran 72 amps for 4 hours.
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Bigger things aren't really made for single phase but some of the older ones can be modified are sure you need something that large?
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If you are using this on a voltage higher than 32v you can use an eaton BK/ABC-30-R. it is of similar ratings where it counts. It does have a better interrupt rating (how much fault current it can stop before exploding)
search on mouser for item 504-BK/ABC-30-R
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I never tried the 003 on my home, but in my shop it doesn't like my air compressor. There are typically 2 things that set off a breaker, thermal and magnetic. Thermal is for the long overloads and magnetic is for the sudden shorts. Problem there is motors can draw up to 10x their current on...
Yes that can make minor adjustments. Use a multimeter to get an accurate reading. Be advised that the factory frequency meters are not the most robust
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