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The purpose of the test is to see if the injector is over fueling the cylinder. The metering pump does not deliver just the amount of fuel required for each power stroke. The injector opens at about 3000 PSI, sprays 1 fine mist of fuel then closes once the pressure drops below 3000 PSI. , the...

I'd be more inclined to think that cylinder has it's injector stuck open or at least leaking badly. In my experience the perfect shim thickness on the pump is not as critical as they make it seem. When in doubt, 2 black shims seems to always work without a problem. The pump could be bad, and...

The engine will run just fine, but you'll probably take an oil shower if not careful. The gears will be flinging oil all over the place.

When the dual float sensor is sensing low fuel, the machine is still allowed to start each time you cycle S1. The machine will start for a short period of time, then the low fuel indicator light on the fault panel is triggered and the machine will be shut down ( with power still on and the low...

Modifications depend on which airtex you use. The E1074 with the welded on 90* end fitting requires the supply pipe extension, which is a piece of 1/4" tube about 4" long with female JIC fittings on the ends. This is needed to convert from the Facet cube pump to the E1074. You can use steel...

Does your machine have the quad fuse mod. to the left of the regulator? If so, test the fuse. If not, install the fuse mod before going further....

If you end up fixing the old one, post up what size o-ring was required, it will help someone else one day!

All the solutions in that section look pretty funny / obvious, but the ghost takes the cake!

Careful with the $25 China pumps. I used a couple of them and none lasted very long, so keep another spare on hand at all times. the universal Airtex pumps are much more reliable and not very much more money, if you can find them in stock.

Just drop it in and go! Only thing is you have to remove the IP to swap the control unit so make sure you set the engine on the #1 compression stroke's PC mark, remove the IP with a 1/8" drill bit inserted into the side hole, then reinstall in reverse after swapping the control unit. Nothing...

GA 1085 is the external one. They don't list the internal because it's part of CU8514A You'll have to separate the 2 halves of the assy. and see what size o-ring fits in there correctly. If you have any trouble finding one locally I often use...

Hold on a second folks.... He is correct, the throttle control is considered non-serviceable but can indeed be fixed with a welder! So, the assembly ( which can still be purchased if you can find it ) CU4514A has an internal o-ring which is the one that usually leaks, because that is the one...

I'd say the best known stiction eliminator is Hot Shot's. it's a bit pricey but I know a lot of diesel guys who swear by it...

Another thought is: I've had a few 802's and 803's with the arctic heater kits in them, but there is no need for them anywhere near me, so I removed them and sold them as a complete kit. To put it back to original I removed the modified freeze plug and put a normal one back in it's place...

If you look at the area near the coolant temp sensor, many machines have a hose fitting that is capped off, I believe that would serve as a feed line out, then the fitting in your lower radiator hose could be your return. Just have to check your machine, some have rubber caps on the fitting and...

I'm curious about this project as well. I have to wonder IF the engine would actually run too cool or not regardless of how you extracted the heat, as long as you leave the thermostat in place and use only the radiator / hose portion of the generator for the hydronic supplement. I would think...

LITD is correct, that synchronizer allows you to set the phasing of 2 machines in sync ( or very close ) then shift the load on the fly. They are not set up to run 2 units in parallel. A few guys on the internet show that it can physically be done, but the 5K and 10K machines are not designed to...

Another option might be to use the engine and swapping out the inverter and alternator for a 4500W generator head, @kloppk used to sell a kit to do so, but I believe he recently posted the info on where yo source the generator itself and I believe he still sells the electronic pieces necessary...

Not the first time I've seen that. Years ago there were a whole slew of rolling 803's at auction up at Ft. Bragg and all of them had the tags ripped off. I also got a few elsewhere where the tags had been cleanly removed by drilling the rivets out, someone planned to reuse ( or sell ) those tags...

Once you get the linage sorted out, if the issue remains, refer back to post #8 I still think you should verify the governor droop setting before you go any further. Start by checking the easy stuff, then if that fails, go in deeper!