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You guys are misunderstanding how that lever works. It's not part of the governor control system, it's the fuel on/off lever and only has 2 positions, full counterclockwise against the stop screw for fuel OFF and full clockwise against the other ( lower ) stop screw for fuel ON. It does no move...

It probably has no effect related to his problem, but you're right, something is wrong with the way the FSS arm is bolted on. Should be a single bolt ( usually with a black knob on the nut ) that's free to slide in the slot. That thing looks like it's got 2 bolts in it. As long as the lever if...

Just a couple more questions, was there a load on the generator in the beginning of the video? If so, how much? The load meter was reading zero and I could hear the same cyclical engine sound both before and after you hit the circuit interrupt switch. Also, there was no change in HZ reading so I...

Look at the face of the meter, I believe the lower right side, you should see something that says FS XXXXX That will tell you what the meter is looking for signal wise for a "Full Swing" of the needle. If I recall, the 003A uses a DC mA signal perhaps 100 or 200 mA but its listed on the face of...

I'm hoping that by "Idle" you mean running at operating speed, but at no load? That is fairly Typical of a machine with an oversensitive governor. They do tend to start normally and run fine when "cold" then start acting up when they are at operating temperature. Usually you see the issue more...

Very strange, it sounds like it's surging rapidly, like the governor droop setting is too sensitive, but I don't really see any swing on the Hz meter, unless the fluctuation is too fast for the gage to react?? I'd read the TM and look at the droop adjustment procedure, there's a hex key...

Rick, FYI the one LITD linked to above is the same one I had mentioned in my P.M. I've used a few of them in the past, you just need to drill new mounting holes in the control cube to mount it, works fine.

Even if it didn't run it would still be worth way more than the asking price!

Agreed... I had one that looked like he got dropped on the leg and shattered the cast iron plate with the thread in it. My only option to repair ended up being to buy an Acme thread nut, weld it to a piece of 1/4" plate drilled and cut to size to fit into the tube and pin in place like the...

In that case you hammer action had to have done something else to "fix" a bad connection somewhere. The fuel level sensor has absolutely no ability to disconnect 24V power from the control panel, so I think you just got lucky, but perhaps only temporary.

You will find a lot of posts on here about crankcase pressure, especially on the 802 where people think they have pressure based on feeling air coming out of the oil cap or dipstick tube, but the only way to tell for sure is to measure it with a manometer because the 802 can be very deceiving. A...

Off hand I don't recall if that is a 1/4 NPT or a 3/8" NPT thread, but it's one or the other. Probably 1/4" NPT I'd bet. If you look down low under the crank pulley there is a drain plug in the bottom of the block pointing forward towards the radiator. That one is a 3/8" NPT, for comparison.

Ok, so that would mean that you had 24V DC at the panel, you just couldn't start it because the low fuel fault should have been illuminated. Were you getting a fault light when trying to start it? Also, in a low fuel scenario typically the machine would start briefly then shut down within a few...

No the issue is not the actual breaker it's the number of winds of wire going through the current transformer. The difference in winding affects the ammeter reading and the functionality of the breaker ( it's not your typical thermal style breaker ) it is possible to take 1/2 the loops of wire...

Wow! looks like something went haywire when you uploaded your pictures! Anyway, the fitting that is broken off under the water pump is simply a petcock for a water drain. It's supposed to be connected to the rubber hose that ties into the radiator drain and the coolant overflow bottle and exits...

I assume you E-stop switch is pulled out and the CB-1 circuit breaker is pushed in? If you have nothing at all, no panel lights nothing, check the shunt mounted near the right side, bottom inside the control box. Also check the CR1 diode, I think it's 2nd up from the bottom on the panel to the...

They are interchangeable but diffeerent It will physically fit but the CT has a different number of wire loops through it, so the ammeter won't read correctly. I also used to believe the AC circuit breaker was different, but recently heard that the breaker is in fact the same. So bottom line, it...

I had an uncle living in Oregon when she blew off, he sent us a glass jar full of the ash. It was the finest powder you could imagine. I can only imagine what it did to every mechanical item it found its way into!

I think the bigger issue is that you have no control over your engine speed / frequency. It doesn't matter how far off you are, something is wrong. In one of your pictures it looked like you were down against the low speed throttle stop. There is no way the engine should be at ~1950 HZ with the...

You can upgrade it to anything you'd like, its 2 simple solder connections on the back, however the holder that's there now should be plenty secure enough. You have to push in and turn it to remove the cap and when a fuse is in place the spring puts plenty of pressure on it to prevent accidental...