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Yes I almost made this error when I purchased new group 31's a couple years ago. It sounds good but regular batteries are correct for our application.

What else can you do? Rotate the batteries occasionally?

I have had it off by carefully selecting a 6 point socket that fits.

Yes that one

Not sure exactly what you are looking for, but I have found the Eaton 10250T line of switches and pushbuttons to be very rugged and reliable in an industrial environment.

Have you taken off the Hydraulic Head and inspected it? The Hydraulic head is what builds the pressure to fire the injectors. It is a finely lapped piston which pressurizes and pumps the fuel into the injector lines. Some say that the piston can get worn or develop pickup (galling) from bad...

I would say get a pipe or a bigger wrench along with the heat.

If I understand correctly you have removed the end from the spindle and are trying to unthread it from the tie rod itself. In that case you may need a pipe on the pipe wrench to get more leverage. It could be frozen/rusted. Might need some heat too.

You might need to check the solenoids that activate the unloader valve. Not familiar with this unit but sometimes these go bad on some compressors. Also the minimum pressure check valve might need cleaning/lube with lithium grease.

Sounds like an airpack problem. Sometimes a rubber line can collapse internally and cause similar problems. Might be a good time to go thru the system. You already changed the master.

What is the condition of your rubber lines? Have you changed anything else on the system? Depending on which air pack you have the kits are readily available and it is not too difficult.

He might be saying that they connected the charger to the truck instead of the batteries. Sounds like the batteries were disconnected and charged in the truck. I have nothing more to add but perhaps this will help the others come up with ideas.

Nickel plated steel is standard for square SEMS screws. The purpose of the SEMS is only to keep the wire from turning as you tighten the screw. They force the conductor against the component that sends or receives power down the wire. Not designed to transmit the electricity directly although...

Here is one similar from Misumi. You will need to buy a lot of them but the price is not out of reach I guess. The company I work for sells them as well but only on #6-32.

I almost don't understand why they replaced them with LMTV. OK creature comforts help and people can't drive manual trans. But they can teach kids to operate high tech missile systems? I can't imagine convoys needing to run much over 50 to get anywhere especially if any tracked vehicles in the...

Looks good to me. You can find some helpful tools at McMaster. It's an artform in my opinion...takes some practice to get it looking nice.

Comes out of the front of the steering box behind the radiator. There is a little cone shaped rubber plug the wire passes thru there. It is simple design but not a great one. I believe the wire just twists a bit inside the column as you turn the wheel. But if installed with wheels straight ahead...

Yeah my problem was inside the column as well. Use the old wire to pull in the new one if you can.

You can buy one or make one. I bought a 2" piece of galvanized pipe 18" long at HD. Then with reducers and little valves I made it so I could screw it in to the thread on top of the master cylinder cap. Filled it with brake fluid and attached it to the master. Opened the top and bottom valve to...

What ended up being the problem?