Search results

Well, right now I could use a little less "fight" and a lot more cooperation LOL. Thank you for the suggestion on the hot / cold thing. That seems to have done the trick! For sure, I am a hard-headed SOB! I don't give up easily. Bringing "basket cases" back to life seems to be turning into...

Pulled the power piston out of the freezer, clamped the nut part in the vise and heated the bottom (nut part) with a propane torch, grabbed the top of the piston with a pair of round grip Channellocks and the piston twisted rights out. Pulled the housing out of the chem dip and washed / blew...

The rollers look good as far as I've looked at them. Haven't really looked closely yet but will and let you know. Any suggestions on how to get the rotor out? Can I twist it out?

Well I got that screw out and the governor linkage and such out of the housing. the housing is soaking now. Had to use a 1/2" drive ratchet handle to get it loose. And yes, it is a 45 Torx. I got 130-132 out but the delivery valve is stuck (imagine that). I think I see the other end of it...

My bits came in and once again, that tool got my ass out of a crack. I had to whack it with the hammer a lot harder than I wanted to and even then it took multiple blows to break it loose. Now if I can just get the cam advance screw out.... I tried briefly to remove it. If anything, it's in...

I noticed that about the cups. Thought I had broken something when the first one came off in my hand. I was thinking that I would put a little axle grease on the backsides to keep them in place on reassembly? I just took the end plate (#66) and the mechanical governor cover out of the Chem...

Yes, I was just looking at that picture too and noticed that they are different. The compressed one is shorter and has slots cut into it. I have them right though don't I? The compressed one goes on the outboard side (away from the motor)? If there's no spring in there, it'll be even harder...

It's the one on the "outboard" side of the pump that's stuck. They look identical except one is semi-permanently compressed (I hope). When I first took them out I thought they were different and took pictures but the more I look at them, the more I think they are identical.

Good ideas. I'm gonna let it soak tonight and maybe try sticking it in the freezer and then heat gun tomorrow. Inner & outer appear to both be same material - steel. There is a spring in there and it should be pushing them apart but this thing was dry (w/o diesel) for so long in a VERY humid...

Found another problem. One of the advance pistons is stuck down in the sleeve / plug - won't move and it's pretty much bottomed out in there. I've got it soaking in Kroil and CorrosionX now. Hopefully in the next day or 3 it'll come loose and I can work it over a bit. Also have that plug...

I just looked at a picture of the Stanadyne kit I ordered (24371). You are correct, it does not come with a new screen. I will clean it as good as I can and change the O-rings that I can and have in the kit.

Got the fuel inlet out of the sleeve(#55). It was in the with pipe dope? Actually looks more like JB weld - and felt like it too. I had to put an incredible amount of force on a 3/4" wrench with the 45" elbow clamped in my vise to get it off. Anyway, not getting how to take the rest of that...

I got the metering valve out after some twisting and pulling. It was definitely "stiff". We'll see what happens when I get it all cleaned up.

Ran into 2 log jams: The fuel inlet fitting is so tight into #55, I'm afraid to turn on it any harder. Not sure what to do with this one. I assume I need to get #54 out to change the filter screen (#57) and some of the other O-rings in the picture. I backed off from that part for now...

Well, the IP is on my work bench. I took the top back off - man there is a lot of gunk in there now! I also found at least part of why it won't start and probably why I couldn't figure out what the shut down arm did. My metering valve is all but stuck. Barely rotates. Haven't started...

Awesome! I'm all ears... errrr eyes. My weight cage came in today and supposedly, my kit should arrive Friday. Pretty much everything I'll need for this rebuild should be here for the weekend. I've been working on getting the IP off the motor this evening. Will probably get it off before I...

Dumbass me - I have no clue where I got 24"BTDC. TM says 20 and I had that part pulled up. But while we're in that part of the manual - this really confuses me. First they tell you never turn the pump backwards. Then they tell you with the pump installed in the motor, turn the motor...

When I get it close to 24 on the flywheel, this is what I see at the IP.

OK, I'm a bit confused: I rotated the motor till the timing marks on the injector pump aligned. By doing it like this I figured I'd be right on or 180* off. When I finally got my cell camera in the right place to take a picture, I don't see 24 or nothing, I see 16 and 20. No clue if I'm...

Even more great info! Thank you!!!!! I'll be extra careful with that O-ring. I'm guessing the only way to get another is to buy the entire kit... That would suck.