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Thank you. I’ve checked all my accessories for loose mounting hardware, and brackets. Found loose bolts on the fan, engine mount, starter, alternator, water pump tensioning pulley, and multiple clamps. I have not checked the compressor nut yet, it’s on the list. Getting my drive shafts...

Is this the rubber bit that needs to come off?

Will the number 31 rubber mount slide over the air fitting on the end, or does all that stuff need to come off? Can I re-use bolt 37 or do I now need shorter bolts because the rubber mount is gone?

Isn’t it bolted on already with Allen head bolts (37) ?

Is number 33 the piece you are talking about?

On mine it seems the whole clutch moves, not just the fan. Would that still be the rubber piece causing that?

From what I’ve read, finding a new style clutch is pretty easy. Finding a fan that fits it though is tough. Has anyone found a vendor selling the new style fan yet?

Superman, It wiggles forward to back, but just a little bit, maybe 1/16” I did have to tighten some of the Allen bolts around the fan when I first got the truck, they had worked themselves loose. Will check them again, but I really haven’t driven it much since then.

Was changing my coolant and thermostat today in my 97 1078. Decided I better check the cooling fan for looseness because of the horrible stories I’ve heard on here of fans flying into the rad. I turned the main power switch on, tilted the cab, and grabbed the fan. I was able to wiggle the fan...

Number 65 is the u cup

Check both ball bearings also. When reassembling the unit, you have to follow the tm, or one of the check balls will get stuck behind the u cup holder assembly if assembled out of order.

36 is the spring I’m referring to. The ball bearings are number 32 there are two of them. In the rebuild section there is no mention of spring 36, unless I glossed over it somewhere.

Turns out I was only missing one bolt in the very corner of the valve body pan, under the front driveshaft. The other three empty holes I have are not bolt holes, but maybe some kind of jacking points to help remove the pan. Here is a pic of the missing pan bolt. The missing filter cover bolt...

Yes, the u cup may also be installed incorrectly. The tm does a good job of explaining that part though. Could also be one of the ball bearings out of place. There are two of them.

I rebuilt my pump last night with the same kit from mro. Installed it today and everything works fine. Did you follow the tm rebuild procedures? I replaced about 90% of the parts I was able to also. One thing I noticed in the tm is it doesn’t tell you to install the spring under the stubby tube...

Excellent , thank you.

The link shows the airbag only at $344.52 each. Where were you able to get $500 shipped pair at?

Thank you. I do have a new drain plug ready to go. Hopefully they come out ok, and I don’t need to get medieval on it ;)

PP997900 is the part number you are referring to. I posted it above, and they are indeed over $400 each now. I also bought good used bags because of the increased cost. Great pictures and descriptions. We really need someone to come up with a way to crimp a new bag on the old assembly. I know...

Getting ready to change over to the transynd fluid and was doing some poking around under the truck to get ready. I believe I have several missing bolts around the circumference of the shift solenoid pan. There is definitely one missing from the filter cover. I think I may have another three...