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Longer radiator and cooler. The cooler can even be pivoted up and propped in place to service the radiator separately. The cutaway hood is less rigid and the flex when opening makes the passenger side hood stop catch in the air cleaner cover and cave it in. You can niggle with the adjustment to...

I was really hoping to get Steve's opinion on the angle drive. I haven't had one come through the shop yet. Had a customer ask about retrofitting an angle drive fan setup. Told him I couldn't speak intelligently about its efficacy...just that they are very spendy Sent from my SM-G970U using...

I'm sorry....I thought it would be obvious I was talking about the method of driving the fan...direct off the crank, or belt driven on the water pump. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Besides the prohibitive costs, whats your opinion of the gear drive fan setup and is it an improvement over the serpentine style? If I had to chose between the two, I would prefer the 114" serpentine setup my M1123 has.

Do you own a multimeter?

Whoever has one in stock. The manufacturer used to sell them direct to the public but has stopped doing so recently. With the rise in units hitting the streets and no more supply you need to grab one from whoever still has them.

I never found a source for inexpensive new rear cushions. Best I could find was a pair of NOS uppers and lowers for $135.

My experience was that the contacts are burnt right where the "sweet spot" is for making connection at the right amount of pedal travel. I pried one apart and tried to refurbish it but it was too damaged to get the sweet spot working. I ended up buying a new one.

An easy thing to do is torque all your half shaft attaching bolts. A common source of a clonking type sound like you describe. Every truck I've inspected has had at least one axle that needed its bolts tightened to spec.

If you dont see anything obvious underneath, Grease your u-joints. Most likely cause of weird sounds on acceleration. Grease may be too late, though. You may need a new u-joint already

When I received my M1123, it had the stuck T/C lock light. I took it to a nearby gravel parking lot and drove in a tight figure 8 once forward, and once backward. About half way through the backward run, it popped loose and I was able to shift it in and out of all ranges.

I would use that switch to manually turn the factory fan on. I added a switch to mine that just breaks the circuit between the temp switch and the fan control module. fan runs continuously and cools things down even in AZ heat in traffic

premature seal failure usually has me wondering about proper surface prep, or excess crankcase pressure. Did you final clean with brake cleaner or acetone etc.? Have you ever replaced the CDR valve/hoses?

Yes. Quite a nice gift. All that stuff is good to have on hand. That "Slave" cable is basically a universal military jumper cable and very expensive the longer it is. The start box as well. Hard to find now-a-days and spendy when you do find one. The long plank sounds like the 2 man cargo...

I got my skid plate off ebay. They look flimsy and cheap but they seem to work fine

What do you use to run the lines along the frame to the fender unit? The OEM hard line pair assy? or just long hoses?(2 door conf.) I found 1 OEM hard line assy but it cost more than the condenser/fan assy

Fab work on a mount for the A/C

Can't picture any "diagonal supports" for the C pillar...What are you referring to? The side rails for the soft top?

There is a company called Transhield that makes fitted covers for military vehicles. My M1123 2man came with one. It looks like it was made to fit over a 2man MAK HMMWV during transport.

Definitely confirm the anti-drainback feature. There are identical GM filters that fit that are with and without the ADV. That would cause a slow pressure reading. For peace of mind, buy a mechanical oil pressure test gauge. Take off the stock oil pressure sender and screw in the test gauge...