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you are not going to take too much off the flywheel, any competent shop should be able to look at it and know. as for the pressure plate, new is $100 so just buy one.

yes, mount it on another engine and pressure test it. it it's new it should not leak, if it is used don't even bother.

not good. there is no reason or excuse for ever using these 'gasket makers' when you can buy the correct seal or gasket. just a sloppy mechanic did this. in answer to your question, no, but just diagnose where the oil is comming from, it's easy to do.

a deutz, kinda pricey

the ground term has a little cap on it that causes the small stud terminal to be grounded.it is steel and rusts, take it off and sandblast it put it back and paint it.

look at pump with a mirror or inspection scope. leaks from the weep hole are the most common and will leave a stain so it is obvious where it came from. time for a new pump, look around, $50 to $80 should buy one.

i got a coalescing air dryer from a UD box truck. have not drained tanks in 8 years, because there is NEVER anything there to drain. they are awesome.

booster pump seal would be the first thing i checked. just slide it out with the line still hooked up and turn on the in tank pump.

once the timing is set it should not be changed. use the idle speed screw, at least 850 is usually a good choice.

what you had really does not matter, the new harness will have all correct numbers and a look at the wiring diagram will tell where they go. the #10 wire is not a jumper, it powers the truck. your old wires could very easily be marked wrong if it has been worked on much in the last 46 years

#10 goes to the hot at all times terminal on the starter relay and powers the horn circuit breaker, becomes 11 and 15 for power to lights and acc switch. same terminal also has #14 going to batt cable on starter. the other wire #214 goes from the relay to the solenoid on the starter. as far as...

such a big system has to be bled. but first you need to fix the leak!! something 40+ years old should be completely torn down and checked. it's part of the responsibility of having a big truck.

the gasket fits several trucks, but not the m-35 so you don't need it. you can just pull the wire up a little and crimp on the correct end if you have one.

just to be clear, my explanation is for replacing the pump on a known good formerly running truck. putting a pump on an unknown engine or one that is apart and out of time is only slightly more involved. the key to installing any of this is understanding the relationship of components in a 4...

no, it turns at crank speed, but the HH turns at cam speed. don't over think it.

for what you propose to do there is no need to remove valve cover. there are two possible timing positions, only one is right. remove shutoff cover, remove timing pointer cover (4 small bolts) turn engine until pointer under timing cover lines up with mark exactly. look in shutoff cover to see...

if you supply the box and 18" wheel, you can buy my steering kit under $2000. uses a common IH710 saginaw.

just to set the record straight, there is no real weak link regarding 2nd that does not include 3rd as well. it is the hub for 2-3 syncro that has soft keys and if you really abuse it over and over again they will shear off. 2nd, 3rd, and 5th gear all spin right on the mainshaft, steel on steel...

the axle vent is designed to let air out and other stuff not in. the grease vent is designed to let grease out and other stuff not in. similar but not the same, the grease vent needs to dump a lot of grease quickly in some cases to prevent damage. put what belongs there back in.

it is very simple. hook 24 volts to it and measure the current draw, with the points closed of course. from there it is just simple math to arrive at the proper resistance for 12 volts. (you want it to still draw the same current) if there is resistance wire or a resistor, the resistance will be...