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has anyone found a reasonable source of the often lost final filter parts? i see them complete for from $15 to $98. does anyone need some if i buy a batch? i found source of the often rotten overflow bottles for $40.
tom
the problem i see is that these are 3 phase only right? so if you run single phase you are just going to get 120-208 volts and use only 2 of the 3 windings, so you will only get a 10 kw genset. there is just no way around this if this is a 10 wire gen head as i assume it is. so without replacing...
maybe not, the diagram looks to show oil only being fed to the rear of the rear head and then it goes down into the block and back up to the front head and dead ends back in the block at the front. doesn't make sense to have been designed that way so i wonder how accurate the drawing is. look...
i guess everyone realizes that even with feed holes at both ends, it only gets oil from one end. that is just so front and read heads and rocker shafts are the same part #
common for the fuel lines to leak from age. they are 4mm, very hard to find in US so i bought a 50 ft roll from europe, let me know if you need some. the fuel filter by wix is different and the drain valve cannot be used.
to much oiling could be a problem depending on valve stem seals or lack of. i remember there was a difference on the lds-2 engine and it was in or ex that got almost no oil by design. low rpm, low pressure springs = don't need much oil. just because you don't see it doesn't mean it is not there...
yes it is a well nut. forget about using sealants etc, they are not the proper way to repair it. make sure the well nut is the correct material for diesel.
all these heaters have a combustion chamber and external exhaust pipe just like a miniature home furnace. starting time varies but is usually about 45 seconds, it depends on what type of glow plug it uses and on some it helps to have some asbestos type material loosely on the hot part of the...
no, that is normal and really depends on wheel offset. there are now so many wheels used other than stock, but the solution is to adjust the right steering stop a little. you really don't loose much so you will not notice it. i used m135 wheels on mine as they have 1 inch more offset so it...
are you going to store it for 20 years? if not just put it somewhere dry and seal up the major openings. if you get a can for free, maybe worth it, but otherwise i don't think so. and starting one up every 6 mths, i hope you are prelubing it or you probably are doing more harm than good.
there is no 'spring' involved. the pin rotates the plunger and it must rotate very easily. if it will turn at all you are in a good position to use laquer thinner to dissolve the old fuel residue. many other solvents will not do it. just keep it very wet and rotate until it gets really free...
you cannot just take the lines off and expect fuel. you must then remove the top of the pump and remove the fuel delivery valve. clean everything first and be very careful as there are several small parts and shims. with a mirror look down in each pump, it must rotate with the fuel lever and...
so if the old style gasket lasted 40 years, even though it may only be 20 to 30 k miles, why would someone need the new style to last more than, say 4 times as long? the point is that many early diesel truck engines had head gasket problems. this problem killed off the 9.0 international engines...
so i went back and re read this whole thread. a LOT of what i saw is just guessing and wrong information. there is one thing we can assume and that is that the heads were not resurfaced. someone to cheap to do the job right is certainly not going to do that. add to that i have never seen heads...
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