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Go see ORD for anything suspension related. Yiu get what you pay for versus getting cheapo lift springs. Highly recommend a 4" front spring and shackle flip for the rear. If the budget is big enough, do crossover and redrill the front perches to move the axle forward one inch.

I had the OEM pump and a reman'd unit back to back. No difference in sound or feel. I wouldn't go as far to say it is smooth as a gas burner. The 6.2 normally sounds like a monkey stuck in the block and is hammering his way out. If anything the stock pump is under fueled. No such thing as rich...

There is a fiber washer on the ground stud isolating it from the case. This is an easy way to ID it, I'm sure it also has infinite resistance between the casing and the ground stud. That's a guess but it shouldn't be connected electrically in anyway. I'd rebuild both units, dope the wiring out...

The indicator needle isn't directly tied to the linkage. It's just clipped onto the column. Pull the shifter down and feel what gear you are in instead of looking at the cluster. Reverse is usually the first to go when fluid is low. It needs the highest pressure to work. Get you fluid sorted...

I have everything including a crimper. I built the system in my M1031 from scratch using a backhoe evaporator. I'm wondering if I ran hose all the way to the back if ir will be ok. Thats a lot of rubber. Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk

I have a stock orifice and it blows fine under load. Then again I'm in New England. How are your rear line condition? I rebuilt the front AC on my Burb during the engine swap and eliminated the rear. I'm thinking of refurbing it but the lines going to the back and the ones going up to the...

I have a pre and post FM100, largest canister and smallest micron on the final. Hand primer and heater, has worked flawlessly for ten years. I just like the added protection for the new at the time injection pump.

I thought the same thing and way back wanted to gut it for a regular bed. So glad that didn't happen. I love my M1031 more and more every year. The truck variants are cool but the service box and ambulance are very unique. I'm sure they are more rare as well. They aren't being made anymore so...

Mine made a nice sine wave when I through a scope on it after rewiring for 240v sol Mine made a nice sine wave when it threw it on a scope after rewiring for 240v splitphase. Granted that was no load. It's brushless so voltage control isn't great but it's no different from anything else out...

Yeah life gets in the way...like a brick wall. Even if the wiring is compromised it's only the speed sensor and pto switch down there. Easy to fix.

Damn v-belts...mine seems to loosen up every once in awhile. That's funny that your charge light flickered before the belt started to squeal. If only the other dummy lights in a CUCV worked that good 🤣

I had a regulator go a few months after rebuild. Swapped it out and it went away.

Does the light go out if you increase RPM ever so slightly? Sometimes low idle will cause flicker. Bad regulators will also do this too. Have they ever been rebuilt? Skipping belt at low speed can do this too.

Yeah it is endless... Mine had no control rod, switches were all messed up. Once that was sorted the boards would do some wonky stuff. Sometimes smashing them with my fist would correct them which was funny as long as the power wasn't out. Once I swapped the control system out I took the boards...

Welcome to 37 year old control boards. No matter what you do you are at the mercy of these working correctly. B4Thundr is not longer selling them. Last I talked to him I let him know that there is interest in the board but I havent heard that he is back selling them. So you have a few...

You can rewire the head for 240v split phase to power your home. It's a 12 lead head so just changing the wire configuration and the plug in the panel...boom your done. You will need to get a new motor for the compressor though. Still, your generator is much more useable for a residential...

I vote to not remove the box. These are rare like the M1010 variant. If you want something else find it. I'm thankful the guy who owned my M1031 didn't part it out for the axles. Don't waste your time with the Humvee tires. Your commiting to an ancient rim size, they aren't great at anything...

It will do just fine. Like I said, as long as both wheels are on the ground it will spin both of them when you hit the skinny pedal. Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk

I had a True Trac in a Dana 30 in the front of an XJ and the rear of a Toyota 8". I was very happy with the performance of it. Sure...if you are rockcrawling and lifting tires there is no substitute for a locker. If you keep both tires on the ground you would be hard to feel a difference from...

I would be more concerned about my line pressure and converter lockup over having to move a shift lever every time. Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk