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Too bad. In reading the info it looks like the took the pics before they removed all the rotor blades , stabling stuff and windows. I wonder if they include all the stuff they pulled ? Except for the gun and nvg.
I’ve done a bit of driving with the 14’s and the 7’s. They make a version for flying that have dual tubes the help with depth perception , wouldn’t try with any off the shelf thermal.
Driving an armored vehicle ? Sure. Not gonna care unless I hit another tank. unless your going straight down a...
I don’t even want to say how long I ran in tires that were from 56 and capped and had cracks that made those looki like yours still had nipples on them. Wouldn’t recommend going full load or speed. Those are surface cracks till Thier not anymore.
Not saying you should drive on anything other...
That motor fires on pressure only , carb cleaner don’t work. I would pull the air filter and use a “little” either. Most people that post here hate that word but it will tell you if you got enough compression to detonate diesel fuel. Don’t over do it. Just a good spray. At least you’ll know if...
If you timing marks line up you should be good. To verify you have fuel by using the air pressure on the fuel tank to push fuel up to the ip, open the air bleeds on the top of the fuel filters on the side of the motor until straight fuel comes out than bleed up to the ip , if you have fuel up to...
I would check the crank bearing while you got the pan off. Excessive wear may make the rear seal leak worse , those old trucks have been run hard at max rpm causing excessive wear.
It should take between 60 to 120 psi to activate the switch. Either the switch has failed or the master cylinder has an issue , it should release the line pressure back when the peddle is released
Cracks are one thing but scratches are totally different. My 1123 has a ton of scratches from years of bad blades and sand , wax only fills the void for a short amount of time , MV glass usually is flat and not as easy to get replaced ( forget insurance on most MV’s for glass) I’m not down with...
I would replace the sender , it should be an on and off switch , lower voltages could cause a higher amperage issue ( lower volts=higher amps) and cause premature lamp failure. Plus I’ve never heard of a reostat (variable output switch for break lights )? I’m only pushing on the breaks s little...
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