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If you do remove the manifold to get to it the lines come off in pairs. Do not loosen the support clamps on the lines. If you remove in pairs you will not require any special wrenches.
Do be aware that because you have added gasoline to your fuel you need to treat it as such.
Used motor oil is fine to feed into a diesel engine provided it is filtered, dry, and diluted enough to have the correct viscosity.
Vegetable oils are more challenging. They have alkanes in them which...
Napa sells both types of coolant. If you chose to go with an antique coolant you need to get strips that test for nitrites. If you chose to go with a modern coolant you need to use strips that test for carboxylates. Carboxylates don't deplete over time so testing is generally unimportant with...
Various companies make coolant test strips. Fleetguard comes to mind.
Yes, you are supposed to add additional SCA every 300 hours and replace the coolant every 3000 hours or 3 years. Changing coolant filters replaces periodic dosing as the filters have additional SCA in them.
SCA is the concentrate. It stands for Supplemental Coolant Additive.
Caterpillar sells it, they simply call it SCA. Nalcool 2000 is another brand. For smaller quantities (<5gal) Pencool 2000 is probably easiest to find.
That's nasty. I would suggest doing a proper acid flush when you can. The cloudiness of the coolant doesn't affect it's performance. Coolant corrosion inhibitors are film forming type and can't form films under rust.
Remember that SCA levels are minimums. It's not possible for them to be too...
Only one Fleetguard coolant is "conventional"
https://cms.fleetguard.com/en_NA/literature/which-fleetguard-coolant-product-right-you/lt36237
The rest are OAT long life coolants.
Defcon, corrosion is any rust on the surface of the cooling passages. If the block is clean the corrosion...
Is there corrosion in your cooling system? Coolants can't protect corroded surfaces from further corrosion. Water flushing doesn't really do anything. If your system is oil contaminated you need to do a detergent wash. If it's corroded you need to do an acid wash. If it's oil contaminated and...
You can do both gaskets in the truck. Pull the heads with the exhaust manifolds attached.
The problem is that you'll likely find damage from the fire rings fretting on the top deck of the block. The block may need to be resurfaced.
A modern extended life coolant with nitrites is best. A conventional coolant with nitrites is second best.
Distilled water doesn't do anything so there is no reason to flush with it. IF you think your system is corroded use phosphoric or sulfamic acid to clean it, then flush with whatever water...
A damper doesn't have to fail to be bad. Over time the rubber hardens and reduces the damper's ability to dampen. Broken crankshafts are one result but I wonder if the cracked main bearing webs are also symptom.
If you do replace you damper the standard units all appear to be made by the same...
You clamp the negative clamp to a chunk of zinc and the positive to the gas cap. Dip then together in an electrolyte in a plastic bucket. Don't let them touch.
I use cylinder cutout tests to diagnose engines. I'll run 12 and 16 cylinder CAT engines on 3 cylinders. These cylinders run near torque limits and they bang like a cold start engine. It's not a problem. Just imagine the cylinders are making the same sounds they would at full power but are...
The rattle and bang is fine. Think of it as some cylinders running near full power to make up for the ones that aren't. It should be ok for cylinders to run at full power. That HMMWV was a bit hard to watch. The 6.2/6.5 engines want the pedal held to 50% for temperatures under 50° (or somewhere...
I would consider anything pre-aluminum radiator an older diesel. Nitrites can cause problems with brazed aluminum radiators.
https://www.chevronlubricants.com/en_us/home/learning/from-chevron/industrial-machinery/nitrited-or-nitrite-free-coolants.html
If you're in California you get CARB diesel fuel. Everywhere else has EPA diesel fuel.
The exact formula of fuel you get will vary station to station. There should be a sticker on the pump that says what type of diesel you're getting.
If it's pre-charged or fully formulated you DO NOT need the additional dose of SCA on the initial fill. With that said, you cannot add too much SCA. You could literally run an engine on straight SCA without doing damage. Normally dosed, you DO need to add SCA every 300 hours and change the...
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