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Thanks for the info - I’ll look at that. There is a guy selling pre cut 1/4” aluminum ones as well - my 1/2 inch comment was due to the fact all of the hardware seems to be for 1/2 inch parts, like the doors and brackets. So my comment was geared toward fitting the original type hardware. I...

I think aluminum would be too hard for me to work with as it would have to be 1/2 inch thick and I don’t have tools to cut that. My goal isn’t just to get some kind of divider, but rather build the wall and make it appear like an original.

I have found new made rear armor wall assemblies/kits, even cheaper aluminum ones. Edit: I’m adding to this post the original pages from the TM showing the diagram and the part numbers for the original components. My goal at this point is a visual duplicate of the original wall, without the weight.

lol. I will post pics when I start - this is the exploratory phase. I’ll be posting my pattern as well. This is the end result hopefully.

No lie my beer fridge is set up with the handle on the hinge side, it’s like a lock. I get everyone at least once.

My next trick, creating a fake armored rear wall so the a/c stays up front and to slightly lessen the interior noise from the rear condenser fans. Well, duplicating the rear wall but using plywood instead of metal. My truck is missing the brackets that hold it on - I’d like to use originals and...

I imagine this is what happens when military orders surpass manufacturing ability. I noticed it last week.

My truck is missing this filler piece, probably thin armor I’m guessing. Anybody have a part number for this? Or a new made one? Pic, circled in red.

I’m almost over the hump about adding some repro armor back to my 1151, that armor looks nice on yours, you may have just cost me some money.

Made some stencils to repaint/recreate correct door “F” battery marking and rocker UIC markings. I based it on photos from online pics of this unit.

My markings were painted over but with spray can paint - lacquer thinner cleaned it off, and the UIC numbers on mine are a carc paint that doesn’t wipe off.

That’s cool. My 1151a1 slant back was with 2/11 Marines Fox Battery. It would be so cool to find a photo of it in service, priceless! Was the same UIC on all of the unit vehicles? I found this pic on the 2/11 Facebook page. I have to assume yes.

It’s possible. I had luck using the “M” number with my 1151, but you have to find the right guy. I got lucky from a friend of a friend kinda thing who could do it, so maybe someone here could look something up. You won’t get info of deployment of the truck or any damage done to it.

Sad to report back it wasn’t successful, but I did manage to somehow make Radio A port on the MCS no longer functional. It’s fine, I just connected an RIT to the end cable and hooked the Bluetooth up to the RIT. If you know you know. I’ll never need Radio A anyway.

This will be a tough one. I have 2 radio inputs to my Vic-3 : 1 - GMRS radio input through an A3206683-4 which has 6 pin on one side and MCS radio port connector the other. 2 - Bluetooth box input with A3206019-3 which connects to the MCS radio port. The issue, both radio port connectors are...

I’ve ordered some rubber sheet, and am taking your advice - disassemble the hinge and put an extended rubber strip. I’ll report back. I don’t mind some leaks, but it was literally raining inside the truck before which can (and has been) improved upon.

Thanks, mine actually has that rubber strip and the hinge itself has no leak - but I like the idea of making it longer. I think my main issue is the hinge presses down on the bulb seal around the opening creating the problem. I may notch the bulb seal there and rebuild it. And i’m aware that...

It’s a hard life out here trying to stop a slant back from leaking. I’ve isolated 3 main areas - back hatch, turret hatch, and doors. I’ve created temporary solutions for the rear hatch and doors, which I will rework once I’m satisfied, but the one persistent problem is the turret hatch where...

I wanted to update this thread with some helpful information. After having little luck finding the correct size stainless bolts, I called Mac motors. The salesman couldn’t help me, but told me to put the part number from the parts manual into McMaster-Carr bolt supplier website which is one of...

Bottom to seal to the tailgate. That how mine is.