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Back at it today. Got the wireless remote wired up. It wasn't until I got the remote working that I realized my winch will power in, but not out. Verified I was getting power to the plug under the passenger dash, so either I have a broken wire, or the solenoid din connector, or the solenoid is...

Maybe just some expanded steel mesh on short standoffs (or flush, maybe) attached to the bumper covering the hole for the light? Hmmm. I'm kind of liking that idea.....

I'm not sure what brand of heated LED you have, but it's likely made from polycarbonate. It shouldn't really need any protection. A flying stone might leave a small impact mark, but it's not likely to break the lens. Even the old glass bulbs are really, really tough. After 30 years and 23...

thanks @GeneralDisorder

Tore back into this today.... Slapped a voltmeter o the output wires under the passenger kick panel..... no voltage when applying the switch. Took the switch panel off to find that I have the winch enable and the winch in/out switches reversed. Either swapped the plugs or go the switches in...

On the A0 at least the trans does not have to be in neutral. If you're in neutral and you engage the PTO it will keep you in neutral. But if you are already in gear, it will not shift you into neutral, you can winch and drive at the same time, either forward or reverse.

So here's a visual aid: At the top is the metal mask/guard then the printed button cover then a spacer then another spacer that makes room for the metal disks to fit. these disks flex when pressed, and make contact with the traces on the printed circuit. lastly, the printed circuit that...

See my post above, but if you are just trying to replace the cosmetic outer layer like I was, knowing now a bit about how it goes together, it shouldn't be too bad.

In short, no. The green part is part of the metal housing. The control pad is a bit of a complicated sandwich. The printed plastic circuit, a spacer, some metal disks for the button presses, and a plastic cover with the functions printed on it. It's all held together using some pretty strong...

Ya... his video is partly why I have questions.... he mentions that the flow through his condenser seems wrong... should be gas in the top. liquid out the bottom, but he shows the high pressure going in the bottom.

Here's the wreckage. And a view of the potting showing that I might be able to get at that ribbon cable... maybe.

Got my condenser unit bolted up... starting to look into the hose routing. I'm a little unsure on how the whole system gets plumbed in. So far I think the output of the pump gets a hose leading to the high pressure service port, then into the dryer, then into the condenser (top or bottom...

here's the A0 setup. simplified a bit. You can ignore the 1811 wire as it's for the dump truck. Apply power to 2019 to engage the PTO. 2021 returns a signal from the pressure switch (to let the truck know the PTO is "on", maybe?) 2005 and 2008 are for winch in/out. 3 wires to make it work...

So... I made a huge boo boo. I was trying to clean up my CTIS controller. A fresh coat of paint, and a new keypad. When peeling off the old keypad, the entire printed circuit tore off..... Has anyone experimented with swapping the keypad circuit? Anyone have a dead unit they might part with...

New sensor came in, and it's plastic..... Works though. tach jumped right to life after swapping the new sensor in.

Finally got everything in place, all wired and plumbed in, but the winch does not turn. The PTO light coms on when I flip the switch and I had a couple leaking connections, so I think the PTO is working. I cannot tell if anything happens when turning on the winch switch ( I tried it in both...

I really like these Weatherdeck panels..... not exactly a fuse box, but waterproof-ish. breakers, indicators/labels. A fuse panel wouldn't have switches, but that might be a handy bonus to be able to turn off a circuit without pulling a fuse, and the switches are protected so you should be able...

A quick search kicked up this, which seems almost flush mount... https://www.amazon.com/Online-LED-Store-PSZACCEPS053H-Waterproof-Indicated-10Port/dp/B01N25TJV3/ Maybe look into marine breaker panels?

Man that's terrible. Is that from a leaky clearance marker light? missing turret cover? open window? all three? At least you've identified the issue.

@Ronmar called it. Pulled the sensor out and it was covered with metal.... mostly from the coil in the sensor that got chewed up by the ring gear. Glad I ordered that new one.