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I'm trying to sort out the wiring before I drop in my inside unit. I got the wiring harness from Tom. Most if it makes sense one part plugs into matching plugs on the HVAC unit and has connectors for the fans, pressure sensors, and pump. Branching off this is a wire with a spade connector that...

Anyone have a source for these duckbill drains... mine are missing.

OK, I'm just confused then. Maybe a pic would help?

It' has something to do with the automatic braking mechanism.... I think. Maybe this will help as it's where I heard about that valve. Unless we are not referring to the same valve?

Thank you. Got one ordered. Saw several out there, none seems to be the right one in the diagrams.

That valve being faulty is the only reason I can think of for it leaking, especially when not in use.

Anyone have a part number/source for the ether temp sensor?

Well, the ether system has temperature switch, because mine is not working. On my A0, it's right in front of the engine on the coolant pipe. It monitors the coolant temp to prevent the ether system from activation in warm temperatures.

yeah... so along those lines. Being a computer guy all my life. I thought about moving stuff around and combining gauges as much as possible to get a computer display mounted in the dash. Throw a fanless PC or Mac mini somewhere and boom... mapping, night vision, vehicle...

Most stuff these days are looking to plug into an OBDII port to get the data. But they are a few made for racing applications that give you a digital display with old-school sensor inputs. Dakota Digital makes a bunch, but there are other companies out there...

Well. I've been comparing two different setups. Lots (most?) semi trucks use a mechanical gauge with dual needles. Like this: This would get both front and rear brake pressure in one dash space, freeing up a hole for a dual boost/egt in a single hole. But... For custom air suspension...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H99Y556 I noticed this one came with the 30mm socket. I probably want one to keep in the truck for the lug nuts anyway.

I was able to unscrew one this morning. It was a lot of effort, but not a lot of drama. I'm wondering if one of those torque multipliers would just back them off. May have to give this a try.

Thanks. I'm still looking for the right forge and tools to go with it. It's a 640 pound RatHole Forge, made in Jackson, WY. I would not reuse it. First it was HARD to get off. All. The. Way. Putting it back on would be the same, I suspect. Also, this one bolt at least, the threads are not...

I got up early and got my cardio in for sure.

Myth busted.

I think it's to keep the cable from sagging and cutting into the air lines at that rear wheel, which make me think it should run up. Also, the rear fairlead is higher. "Up" it is.

Maybe this pic is misleading... I cut off the three hole flange and welded up a new four hole one to match the frame, being careful to keep the same angle as the old flange. Now I'm not sure if it is supposed to angle up or down. This pic looks more horizontal to me. I get mine in place and...

Well. To be honest.... Part of the reason I removed mine was to remove a slight wrinkle I put in it when I hit a stump. I hit it pretty hard as it was below my line of sight and I didn't know it was there. I broke the headlight, and put a kink in the thin strip of steel between the light holes...

Sorry. My pulley in the pic is not completely assembled. There is a "batwing" metal guide to keep the cable in contact with the pulley, I just don't have it all together. I didn't mean to confuse anyone. I was more worried about the mismatched bolt holes in the frame. I'm working to resolve...