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The resolution isn't great but these look like crimp pins to me. First you typically can't remove solder cup pins. Second, the pin is right to the wire insulation. Third, they don't have the side missing for soldering. Those pins all look good, too bad you cut them off already, I bet you...
A check valve is often a spring loaded ball and seat. Use a compressed air hose to check it. Your lungs might not be able to overcome the spring pressure.
General rule of thumb for fuel lines. The larger one is the supply and the smaller one is the return.
You could also pull the hose off the check valve after the check valve and see if you have fuel flow.
Here's a post I did where I had to reuse a crimp terminal and solder it. Note I still crimped the wire in place and then wrapped the wire around the terminal to help hold it physically since I couldn't actually crimp the wire strands...
FYI, I have no personal experience with the connector you are talking about but I have done LOTS of connectors and soldering. First, did the original connector have soldered connections? I ask because every connector on my HMMWV has crimp connections and not soldered. Whatever is on it can...
LOL, thanks, no I am not an engineer. I'm just an enthusiast and my hobby is this truck. A little searching, reading, measuring and researching part numbers will get you a long way. I do have mechanical and electronic abilities but nothing more than most people could do if they applied...
I found a 2 pole motor on epay and asked for the dimensions. The motor has the same diameter and length body so I'm hoping the magnets are the same. It's a gamble but I think it's a safe bet. I was also able to remove the bearings and seal to order new ones. Hopefully it will be like new...
I learned a lot about the Turret motor assembly. First it's made in China!! Or at least the motor is but I suspect it is entirely made in China. That explains the missing o-ring in manufacturing and ultimately the total failure. That said it's nothing more than a Mobility wheelchair drive...
In the above quote I explained the "plan" for simplicity and not taking the more difficult and costly route of building a proportional rear steering. That said, I don't really have a plan I just kind of dive in and see where things take me. The more I thought about what I wrote about not...
Everything under the truck that is steel will rust from salt. Salt will also "rust" or oxidize the aluminum body. I refuse to drive mine in the winter on salted roads. Worse than the salt is the other stuff they put on the roads such as pre-treatment before the snow starts.
The steel under...
Did you install the radiator and shroud as an assembled unit? When I did mine I unbolted the power steering cooler and flipped it out of the way without disconnecting the lines. Then I removed the transmission lines on the passenger side and again flipped the cooler out of the way without...
Turns out not all failures are created equal. After taking the turret joystick apart and finding the loose sensor and "fixing it", I decided to buy another joystick. The rubber boot on the first is a little deformed from use or heat or something. I bought the second joystick in hopes of...
You obviously haven't price material lately have you? You couldn't buy the Aluminum or Steel for less than you can buy them ready to bolt on for on epay right now. And why do you keep suggesting people make stuff out of plywood? Do you want Plywood doors on your HMMWV?? If you do, you are...
They are not custom. There are also rear access doors not intended for personale but for cargo. Many options. Some people put hinges on the ones you have and just use them.
I'll guess by the serial number. Imo, I would only use the correct date to the best of my knowledge to avoid future legal issues. If you are off by a year that is a simple mistake, off by 15 years to circumvent proper registration not so much.
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