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Note that there are two each of two different diodes in the generator, 1N1206A and 1N1206RA. The -RA diodes are reverse polarity. Edit: It's actually 6 total, 3 of each type.

This thread has information about the 1N part numbers. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-002a-and-003a.62648/ These can be a little hard to find, and a little expensive at times. You can substitute the higher voltage 1N1206A and 1N1206RA, and there is no reason not to go with those...

The terminal voltage of an unloaded battery might tell you the percent charge, but that's the percentage of its capacity in its current condition. A failing battery can appear to be 100% charged, but not be able to supply the current needed to start an engine.

Maybe it's because I live in such a sparsely populated area, but they seem to notify me very soon after the power returns.

I have a Powerback alarm, but now my power company sends me a text message when the power returns.

If the regulator is sending excessive control current to CVT1, which is one mode of failure, then it could, as you say, be the problem. If this is the case, if you disconnect the wire from terminal 17 of the regulator and tape its end so it doesn't contact anything, you will prevent the...

This resistor is responsible for flashing the field during starting. It is connected to terminals 5 and 6 of board A4. During cranking the exciter field gets 24v from the master switch through diode CR2. The other end of the exciter field at terminal 5 is grounded through the resistor, via...

Ray is correct that resistor is supplied by the 24v battery, not the regulator. As he said, it should carry current only when the switch is in the start position. Either you're right that the exciter filed resistance is very low, or for some reason it was carrying current to the exciter field...

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Yes, of course. I just said that if you're in doubt, you can check its accuracy.

You can check a Kill-A-Watt meter against a meter that's known to be accurate once a year or so if you doubt its accuracy.

I have a feeling that I'm missing something. If it's a 20 uF capacitor, measuring 20.69 seems to be well within spec, at less than 4% high.

Ray has it right... of the three on the bottom of the regulator, the two non-red wires are AC in from the alternator and are interchangeable, and red is DC out to the battery. The other two wires just go to and from the fuse.

110v and 108v are not very different... less than 2%. I would not consider that to be a problem. Frequency (Hz) will not change with a voltage adjustment. To change frequency you need to adjust the engine speed. If you can't raise the engine speed with the big black knob, then something is...

That should work fine for measuring coolant temperature, but just twisting the thermocouple wires together does not make a very reliable junction. Are you sure they're not twisted and then welded or soldered? I've done things like this quite a few times when I wanted to be able to connect a...

Yes, and it appears to be black, so probably type J.

That looks like a nice soft start unit, thanks. Micro-Air says that running current is not reduced, so I think you're just seeing the normal running currents that vary as the indoor and outdoor temperatures change. That 13.5 amps is the maximum expected current with the worst temperatures you...

What is the 500 watt load?

Most electronic devices have a power supply as their first entry point of AC power. Those power supplies then provide DC to the actual circuitry of the device. They usually have a wide range of acceptable voltages and frequencies, and are not particularly sensitive to non-perfect AC waveforms...

One problem is that without a battery, the high amount of ripple on the battery charging circuit often destroys the RF noise suppression capacitors at the fuel pumps and maybe other locations I can't think of. If one of those decides to become a short circuit, you'd lose all 24v.