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The regulator I sent you, like the original, applies current to the control winding of CVT1 when the generator output is too high. This control current reduces CVT1's output to the diode bridge that supplies the exciter field. The SX-460 directly supplies exciter current. The stock type...

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It's been a while since I looked at mine, but I think there are two heat sinks, each with three diodes on it. Look around the full circle. There are three of each of two types. One type is cathode on the threaded stud and the other type is anode on the threaded stud. Here's some information...

Did you ever check the rotating diodes as DieselAddict suggested? I can't remember.

It's normal that the exciter voltage is less than 24. That resistor on the A4 board is there to drop the 24v to a lower value, limiting the current. I just started my 003A and measured the exciter voltage during cranking and when the engine started. It was less than 9v during cranking, and...

The manual to your meter should explain that the displayed number is the forward voltage drop of the diode. Here is an excerpt from the Fluke 87 manual: "Use the diode test to check diodes, transistors, silicon controlled rectifiers (SCRs), and other semiconductor devices. This function tests...

You were correct before. The diode test function of the meter applies a small current to the diode and measures the voltage drop across its junction. Then it displays that forward voltage drop. Resistance of the junction is not something that's useful to try to measure, since the apparent...

Another source is McMaster-Carr, at $9 per 100. https://www.mcmaster.com/90316A829/ or $7 for 25, depending on whether you want slotted heads or serrations: https://www.mcmaster.com/97646A241/ Of course shipping is extra.

In IMG_6768.jpg, what is that small mess I see in the top of the coil that's at the bottom of the photo, in the 6 o'clock position? (oops, I didn't see the last couple of posts)

Those generators are wired so the glow plugs are on when you're cranking, so you're using them whenever you start them. You're just not preheating with the plugs. I don't think an 002A or 003A would start at 70F if you disconnected all the glow plugs.

My regulator has a 22,000 uF 50v capacitor built in, to allow you to run without the main 24v battery if needed. I don't think using an external capacitor will be of any benefit. Thank you for the kind words @justacitizen.

The charging system of an 002A or 003A puts out only about 7 amps. When the battery needs some charging, it can effectively be the regulator. Then when it is fully charged and stops accepting much current, a faulty regulator can make the voltage rise above normal levels. Another normal result...

I'm from MD, but not living there any more.

Six readings of the same 0.9 ohms is suspicious. Is there any chance you made a mistake in measuring? You actually have H1 through H6, C1 and C2, and X1, X2, and X3. This means you have three pairs: (H1 to H2) (H3 to H4) (H5 to H6) (about 2.3 ohms between each pair) Then you have...

I haven't experienced this, but my guess is that is would cause low output voltage, not zero output. This is one of those "It's definitely a problem, but maybe not the only problem."

That alone means CVT1 needs to be replaced. That open winding means one phase of the tranformer's exciter field output will be missing.

That could be a big clue, so it's probably worth a very close look at what that burned material came from.

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It's interesting that by contrast, the 002A and 003A run the pumps full time and control the fuel flow by opening and closing solenoid valves. Since the pumps use a spring for the pump stroke and the internal solenoid for the return stroke, the pumps don't do much when dead-headed.

That's the cleanest, whitest wiring I've ever seen on a generator.