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It's academic at this point, but did you subtract the reading of the meter leads from the reading you got on the windings? That is, short the probes together, wait a few seconds, and get that reading, then subtract that from winding readings.

If I pull out the dipstick on my 003A while it's running it will do more than put a mist on my hand, it'll spray oil all over the place. I imagine a 2-cylinder engine would do even more. Are you sure it's not something like previous times were with cold, thick oil and you recently tried it...

I'm afraid that with a 2-cylinder engine that paper is going to flap wildly no matter what the condition of the engine is.

An 802 has two cylinders with pistons that go up and down together, correct? That causes a huge amount of crankcase pulsing. How about doing a compression test to see if you really have excessive ring leakage.

T2 supplies the regulator with a sample of the generator output voltage. If T2 doesn't have an output, the regulator will think the generator output is low and cut back its output to zero so no control current flows in CVT1. This should make the generator output go high if everything else is...

My money is on a bad CVT1. Without going back to read all the posts in this thread, did you measure all the windings in it and compare to the values in the TM?

I don't know that unit specifically, but I can tell you for sure that the engine is running below speed if the frequency is low, so you may have more than one problem.

The regulator will be on the way to you tomorrow morning. I had to build one for you, but I got it together and tested last night, and the conformal coating is drying now.

I don't see how those non-fastened terminals could do anything other than prevent the starter motor from running.

That's the whole point... if the regulator is what's causing no output, then disconnecting it will make the voltage go high. It's not a common failure of the regulator, but I've seen it happen if the output transistor fails shorted.

If you want to be sure the regulator isn't the problem you can disconnect the wire from terminal 17 of the regulator and with everything else is working as it should, running the generator should produce higher than normal voltage, like 170-340 volts. This is because the regulator works by...

The main components that supply the exciter field current are CVT1, which sends AC to diode bridge A4, and that diode bridge, along with all the associated wiring and switch contacts. That current is controlled by the regulator and a control winding in CVT1. It's not very likely the problem is...

The local small sawmill has three bandsaws, each run by gasoline engine. Your saw sounds bigger though.

I don't mean to interfere with Guy's diagnosing procedure, but occasionally, rarely, my starter solenoid doesn't return fully, and the next time I try to start the engine, it won't pull in and crank. Usually a couple tries and it works OK. If not, a tap with a hammer on the exposed solenoid...

I'm glad it's working, but I have to wonder why the built-in flashing circuit didn't work when the 9v battery did. It might be worth checking out that circuit to make sure it's working for next time.

As I mentioned in my email, measuring the resistance of a diode with an ohm meter is not likely to give you a good result. You need to use a meter with a diode test function or you need to put a small current through the diode and measure its voltage drop. Years ago, a lot of meters used a...

Henry, here's one thread I was telling you about. It has information about the rotating diodes. Mouser currently has both the 1N1206A and the 1N1206RA in stock at about $6 each. I recommend testing yours first with a meter that has a diode test function though, since it's quite possible...

If your load takes the 002A to 3/4 of its capacity, it would take an 003A to 3/8 of its capacity. Not that this makes much difference to your question though. The 002A would use less fuel, from all reports I've read over the years. A lot of the fuel usage just comes from turning all the...

Ideally you should have pretty good vacuum. The idea behind the method I'm familiar with is you pump out the air while it's submerged in the sealer. Then when you let the air back in, the sealer if forced all the way in to the windings. If there's any significant amount of air, the sealer...

Right about vacuum. I have transformers and stator coils wound for products I make, and I specify vacuum impregnation of the coils. It's still done, and is necessary to get the sealer all the way through all the turns of the coils. The local motor rebuilding shop here has a vacuum chamber in...