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Not to me, but it aint my truck . If it was my truck I would remove the gutless smoke maker and drop a 454 in the same hole and add a 2" or 4" lift and taller tires and done . The Mark IV engine will comfortably rev 2k higher and the engine trans combo will live trouble free longer than the...

Taller tires and leave it alone ? If I had both trans at my disposal and I had to change it out, I'd definetly go with the 4l80 and a stand alone . But I really like them old TH-400s, I cant even fathom removing one to put a 700r4 in its place .

If I was to run oil to cool for some reason in this day and age I would cut half the fins off the water pump and remove the thermostat, the thickness of oil would be your thermostat, and trying to pump it in a hurry would aeriate it .

A lot of older engines used oil as a coolant instead of water or water based products, the famous Oil Pull engine is a perfect example . You would not want to mix the two, you would drain the water out and fill with oil and it will work, but why do it if not necessary ? There was an old...

Are you obtaining the old dusty truck you visited ? Because that beast is awesome .

Every time I see one of these things it reminds me of the movie "Maximum Overdrive" .

I have read all the towing TMs I could find until my eyes bled, I have never found where it says what to do with the shifters of the towed vehicle . All these rigs are different, some have auto trans, manual trans, two speed T-cases etc. I'm sure someone will say just put everything in neutral...

There's a guy on YouTube called "black earth farming" that converted over some 800 series axles to air brake, he has two bridge trucks I'd dearly love to have .

If you have the room and the money for a running truck AND a parts truck that is a smart way to own these things, however air brakes are vastly superior . But if that one truck has a dead engine and about to have no winch, it isnt going to be worth much to him or anyone else, sounds like good...

@ToddJK I removed the fittings from the old base and put them in this one, hooked up the lines and done . All original plumbing like the day it was made but with spin on . I even mounted the base to the original plate by just drilling three holes in the vertical part of it .

So yesterday I finally got my spin on primary fuel filter base and filter installed, and the other two secondary filters changes, no one will ever convince me that they sent the correct gaskets, what a pita, I ended up removing the entire housing from the engine and messing with it for entirely...

Here are some pics of what I used to replace my old rusted primary, less than 60 bucks .

I think what some guys do is eliminate the pass side primary, then change the micron rating of the 1st secondary which would now be the primary, and leave the rating of the last filter alone, some guys even tighten up the rating on that but I don't . Not sure if they put a water seperator on...

You can get the two spin on filters that replace both of your secondary filters now, and anorher filter with mounting boss that replaces tthe primary with a spin on as well but with a higher micron # . I bought a mounting boss that uses the Wix 33405 which is a 14 micron water seperator with...

The way the original primary filter is designed is really cool, the filter is only in the top half of the housing, so the fuel comes in, dumps straight to the bottom with no interference, deposits any crap (rust water etc.) in the bottom of the filter housing where it stays, then heads up thru...

I'd kill for that if it was a dump bed

No, but they can't be any worse than Eastern Surplus, I might have the guage you need if you have a pic for comparo

Make sure everything is greasy, especially the front side of that washer and the back side of that nut, that greatly reduces the friction of the tightening nut trying to take the washer along with it , make sure no burrs on the backside of nut, you want it to slide smoothly along w/o grabbing...