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For starters I'd suggest using your meter and see if there is 24 volts DC present on each of the terminals of the Emergency off switch. If present then check each of the terminals on CB1. If present then check S1 terminals 2,4,6 & 8. If present then put S1 in the Prime/Run position and again...

Can you re-do the current measurement and measure the AC voltage across R11? With 0.19 amps AC thru R11 the voltage across the terminals should be 1.42 volts AC. Here is a diagram of the %Load circuit in 120/240 mode and AMVM set to the 3 o'clock position.

Did you check to be sure the red Emergency Off button is pulled out?

1 A is 133% Load 0.752 A is 100% Load You need to hook your meter in series with the sets %Load meter. At 100% Load the burden resistors should have 5.6 volts AC across each of them. At 133% Load the burden resistors should have 7.5 volts AC across each of them.

Or two 12 volt chargers, one for each battery.

The %Load meter is NOT a voltmeter, it's an ammeter. 1 amp Full Scale. That's why you see very little AC voltage across the terminals.

Those are for 120 VAC. You need something for 24 VDC

By popular demand kits are again available to perform the Gen Head Swap on MEP-831A's! Gen Head Swap Kit

If you looking at a High Frequency inverter then it's way less likely to be able to start it. HF inverters can only put out their surge capacity for a very brief time before tripping. On the other hand Low Frequency inverters are much more suited for starting motor loads. They can put out...

I'd just chop those ferules off and extend the wires as needed with suitable wire and some crimp butt connectors. For mounting the contactor I suggest doing this. Re-use the "L" bracket that was used under the inverter and do this. Just need to drill 1 hole to mount the contactor to it.

A great tool for finding electronic parts is Octopart.com Just put in the part number and it will display what distributors carry the part, how many they have in stock and pricing.

Newark has 4 of the 08490

As you know LED's require little voltage to light up. A flicker tester could be made by adding a current limiting resistor to an LED. Then add two wires to it to use as probes. If it's then attached across two points in a circuit and there is momentary voltage drop the LED will blink...

Do you have any LED's and resistors laying around? I have an idea on how to make a tester to track down the problem. :cool: If you don't I can make one and mail it to you.

Instead of messing with messing with MT4 I'd suggest installing a jumper wire between the two top terminals of MT4. Be sure to disconnect the batteries first. The jumper will bypass MT4. See if the flickering stops. If it doesn't then it's not MT4.

MT4 is behind the gauge panel in the front right corner.

Before your post I tore the roof off my 802 to check if 7 to 8 was closed in 120/240. It is... Time to put my roof back on now that the mystery is solved.

Since you can see the contacts set the switch so 8 is "closed" and then look into cavity by 7 and see if it appears "closed". If so I'd then check continuity from 7 to 8. If no continuity, then I'd run a point file or something between the contacts and then recheck continuity.

Here are some pictures of the innards of some of the many layers of S8. Pictures sent to me by someone who tore one apart. And yes they can fail...

I suspect you may be checking the wrong terminals on S8. For checking for continuity between 7 & 8 you need to probe these spots.