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A less expensive option is to use these. About half the cost. Just need to use 10-32 screw instead of a nut. 1 1/4 spacer

NSN seems to indicate the length of the hex is 1.25", not the 1.5" you measured. Assuming it's 1.25" I found these. Standoffs Be sure to check specs vs the busted ones you have to verify they'll work.

What length is the hex, the threaded portion and what size and pitch are the threads? How many types? Hex with internal threads on both ends, hex with threaded stud, other?

Actually the MWO for the 804A calls for a KTK-3 fuse. FNQ-R-3 is only for the 802A & 803A

Can you measure the hole diameter for the missing LED lens with some calipers? I can look around at parts suppliers and try to locate suitable replacements.

Assemblies now available the the Classifieds. Click on link in my signature

IAW = In Accordance With

Be sure your meter is set to AC volts when adjusting the MPU.

The cables a 6 gauge. I used these terminals. Picked them up in the electrical department at Lowes.

Excellent

No power to A5 terminals 3 & 5 is likely due to relay K21 not closing with S1 in START. Check for ~24 volts at the following points in sequence with S1 in START. S1-7 Diode CR4 Right end Diode CR4 Left end Relay K21 terminal A

After it starts are there any fault lamps illuminated?

Yes, two 12 volt batteries in series for 24 volts.

A pair of reasonably good AGMs will set you back about $250 for a pair. That's what I use in both of my 831's.

I assume the two exciter wires from the exciter were on the TB8 terminals when you di the measurement. If so then you ought to inspect the leads to TB8 from the exciter. Hopefully you can find a break explaining the high resistance. I've see the exciter leads on a few 802's and 803's break or...

You need to grab a meter and check for ~24 DC along the path from the batteries to S1. Check these points in this order and let us know what you get for DC voltage. All are suppose to have ~24 volts DC on them. All measurement are with respect to chassis ground. Dean Crank should be in NORMAL...

Hi Alex! Kurt here :) That certainly would explain the problem!

Be sure the diode CR3 is installed on S5 is in the correct orientation and that the diode is good for starters. The CR3 diode is sometimes removed or mis-installed. To see if K8, S5 or the CR3 diode may be the issue you could do the following. Start the set and then measure the DC voltage at...

I sell the S14's and the other relays for probably a lot less than you paid.

Brandon, That wire is the ground that feeds everything in the control cube behind the gauges. Ground then fans out from TB4-7,8,9 & 10 to everything that needs a ground. In a couple of the pics it looked like that wire was not in the original wire harness but floating about in the control cube...