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@Floridianson This must be what you are talking about but clearer video.

It took me a while to track down. But we advance the engine until the scribe mark and arrow are aligned, then we can carefully remove the assembly? Here is a video from tactical repair explaining what I think you are talking about.

Looks like this. I can't make it out through the paint. I don't believe it's the G code though. But I have little experience.

I don't know, but I can go look. Is there Here it is! Looks like a UNN Technologies?

That all sounds very intimidating! I think i'll study up on it for a while before I attempt that. Is there something else that you think I could try beforehand? Maybe WD40 in different spots, or something simlar?

Should I attempt this? If so, I think i just disconnect the fuel lines above, the fuel lines that attach to it, and loosen the 4 bolts and pull it off very carfully. Before I do this, should I order some O-rings to replace stuff while i'm at it? If I DONT have to too this, are there any...

Here is a video of the engine shutoff. It was gummed up, but now it snaps back. Especially if the power was on.

I'll shoot a video and show you today where it's pointing

I have tried to bleed the injectors in the past, but nothing comes out. No smoke ever leaves either. Perhaps the button thing is broken? Is there a way It can be fixed while everything is on the Duce, or do I have to pull the entire fuel injector off? Or is there a way I just remove the...

When I move it to the 4 oclock, it will slowly return to the 7oclock. It won't snap back like show on other people videos. I don't believe it's the part that interfaces with the spring, I think it's w/e the arm is that actually extends back into the unit towards the fire wall that's gummed up...

Still no fuel to the engine. Above is the current situation. Also, if I manually press the engine stop forward (with the cover off) it will not start. The plunger behind the 12 point is clean and moves freely. If the duce is on there is a VERY healthy flow of fuel to it. Still no file making...

Gottcha. Pull all those out, give them a good cleanin if need be, WD-40 the arm until it moves freely, reassemble everything and fire her up? Thanks for he help!

Ohkay! That is starting to make sense. Are all diesel engines this way? The speed/rpms of a diesel engine are controled by how much air is put into it, not how much fuel, and that the fuel is constant? I saw a Governor, and it was an air regulator, and mounts above the air filter box. Which...

Alright, so once fuel is up to that point, remove the 12point plug and small spring (looks like a short J-frame trigger return spring) 1) Get a blade? What kind of blade, like a knife or screw driver head? 2) I'm assuming we insert the blade into the hole where the 12point and small spring came...

One thing I had not mentioned before was that with the "engine stop" cover pulled off, I've pushed the arm manually all the way to the 7'oclock position, and tried to crank it and nothing has happened. It still "Wants" to turnover, but no fuel seems to be making it.

I will try this tomorrow and report back if it works or not! What I THINK you told me was to use WD-40 in the "kill engine" valve area, unitl it moves nice and easy. After that reattach the cover, and try to start 'er up? Please someone correct me if I misunderstood! Thanks!

Thanks! I have certainly learned my lesson. Everyone seemed to agree that Seafoam was good. I didn't know that there were different kinds of seafoam.

Thank you so much for the reply!! Any suggested brand? Also, can I just squirt it in directly into the cover that I removed, or is there a suggested method?

Long time lurker, it's because of y'all I bought an M35A2. I have previously searched the forum and couldn't find an answer, so I am posting. This could entirely be from not having enough experience to search properly, if so, my apologies in advance. Below is a youtube link showing the problem...