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The access cover is on the side, not the front or back. It is next to the truck frame up high on the passenger side.
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There is a square cover on the transfer case, high on the passenger side. Taking out those four bolts and removing the cover will give you a good look at the shift fork and gear and may shed some light on it all.
Also, I have had several Rockwell’s apart for rebuild so I am not sure if the...
A slightly different issue that will not affect getting the transfer into gear but still could be an issue. You said the front and rear yokes were turning together, was that with the truck running/aired up? With zero air pressure the front yoke should turn independently of the rear. With the...
Was the transfer case shifting normally last time it was driven?
Your transfer case is stuck in neutral, some of these have a very strong detent on the shift fork rod. It could also be the gears are not aligned to let you engage either high or low, usually you can get into one or the other to...
The OP asked if anyone else built a base tank. I don’t know how to link a thread but just search this topic from another member a few months back.
“MEP-803A - Fuel lines for stationary sub-base fuel tank”
Also some good info in this thread:
“Generator AUX fuel Tank”
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There is neutral, it is documented in other threads how to add a vented switch/valve to the tappet valve air supply to keep it in neutral. I went over that thoroughly when I had mine apart to verify and will be adding the air switch.
The shift fork air cylinder is spring loaded to center which...
Hey I was gone for a couple days. Glad you got the main gear figured out. That really would keep it from going back together!
I hope this picture is not right before it went on for the last time.
At least two of the roller/wedges are backwards.
They are tricky and the best way to verify...
Did you remove the speedometer assembly?
That sticks in about 1/2” and may not be lined up right.
Is the shift fork shaft moving freely?
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I did that this year as well. The inner end of the front output shaft inserts into the end of the rear output shaft about 2 inches. In other words, the front shaft slides into the hollow end of the rear shaft. Any angle of the “front nose” as you called it, relative to the main case, will make...
I should have a spare.
I would go in for two if needed to get to 10, might as well it would cost that much buying a one off. I’m already doing maintenance/repair on four units so I “will” need one eventually.
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I just saw this thread and thought I would mention something I wish I had done with my install.
That is to run an extra wire along with the main wiring to supply power for a battery maintainer. You already have a ground and you said the neutral will not be switched so you might only need one...
There is no fuel shutoff solenoid.
The stop/run solenoid (right in the center of the exhaust side of the engine) moves the (internal) rack to close the fuel metering lever on each of the individual injection pumps.
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Per my local Napa, their whole Gold lineup is made by WIX and they just drop the #5 prefix off the part number.
Also at both my local Napa’s they have a “Filter Friday” every month when all Napa Gold filters are half price! Makes the oil filters for my 803A four dollars and change.
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There is no need to disconnect the batteries. Just make sure to hook up to the proper polarity of each individual battery and don’t let the jumper connection confuse you. Even in larger battery banks with many batteries and a combination of parallel and series connections you can charge any...
Does the GENM2 specifically, or maintainers in general need disconnected while the generator is running? I looked it up and couldn’t find anything solid on that.
I am getting ready to commission an MEP-803A in a system where it will be automatically started by an inverter system.
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Is it better to maintain two 12V batteries that are linked in parallel with a 24V maintainer or two smaller 12V maintainers?
I have been told that if one battery ages faster than the other or if (like in the case of my M817) there is a “center tap” to get 12V for small loads, the batteries will...
Or just replace/rebuild ALL the components, replace the hard lines with cunifer, get new rubber lines and then you know your whole system is good to go (Er STOP).
My 1972 M817 brakes were still operating just fine after 38 years so it can’t be THAT wimpy of a system providing everything is...
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