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I've got it's brother the 531 which is 120...I'd bet you could hook up a 24 volt to 120 volt inverter that would work fine. They run loud as heck and use just a little fuel and are easy to start especially if you have a vehicle with a jump cable. If not they have the pressure relief valve...

That's the plan...there's several been running through sale the last few weeks missing the gen head but the engine and the rest still there...from what I've found the engine and some other stuff is the same as the 803 which I have. Thing is they're still bringing 1500 or more...they start at 5...

I hear that completely, why I got several tanks of red die at the house. I don't think I could ever get all the parts needed to make me feel comfortable with the future so I am betting on being able to fix what I got with what I got...still trying to get one of those 813s for sale tomorrow for...

Having a pop in that when you need it would be really bad. I do keep some pellets at the house for crazy emergencies like that. I have learned to melt them first and not just dump them in as they will clog the heck out of the rad bad. They work very good if you don't use to much of them. I...

I'd hit an online deal before getting a book...unless that is what you want. There are plenty of free online downloads of the wiring for it. http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=30115.0 can try this forum...scroll down some and it shows wiring for the 84.

The basic trico exact fit at 16 inch will work fine for a while. I think those fat mount rain x brand ones might last longer with their type of thick mount but not sure. There's a bunch of options really I just liked the stock metal cage look. The trico flex beam says it will fit too. It has...

The voltmeter is meant for 24 volt so it may not work if you don't have 24 volt anymore. You can pop a regular 12 volt gage in there though if you would like to see volts. It should be pretty easy to install plus there is a bulb wired for the stock one so you can see the new one with the...

I don't like the plastic attachment parts they use for the straight arms that are on these since they can bend very easy. Years ago when you got blades the adapter for the bend came with them but I don't think they do anymore so you're stuck with just then end for support. I got blades not...

I used the Energy Suspension brand on mine. My bolts up there were really skinny, kinda tough to get out. I hit tractor supply and got some grade 8 bolts to replace them. Those spinning nuts suck!! Gotta cut open the floor to wedge them to get the bolt out or heat it up with a torch...not...

Did they happen to throw in more than one!! I wouldn't mind finding one of those.

I went in the TM on page 118-1 or page 285 of 984 and found part number 1257087 as the original part number for the valve. The TM pic does show that it uses both outputs for the front so it can make a wicked pull on hard braking. It can get stuck but some good jams on the brake can get it...

The brake light coming on should be the proportioning valve being stuck...I think that's where it gets the ground from...other than the parking brake....it is under the radiator support...I don't think I'd shoot the parts cannon until that gets checked...it can be replaced or I usually hit a...

Replacing the VRV on the side of the Injection pump IP there is a spec for arm travel for it and of course a special tool to do so...I don't have that stuff and I doubt many do...I set the vacuum at 11 to 12 pounds off the trans side of the VRV at idle which is the top hose on the VRV...can plug...

Dang that's rare that they left the brackets on it!!! I usually type in cucv in the search of marketplace. Sometimes you get lucky! If you are looking for groups look for square body and cucv ones in the search for groups too. Look for high post counts per week and member numbers! Hillbilly...

Look on facebook marketplace...I found a random guy selling a set there not long ago. I got a set from cucvrus a few years ago but not sure if he has any left. There's more to them than just the tube as well...there's a bumper mount that goes with each side...I am assuming you have the parts...

yes that should work for sure! I do a long parking lot and go in reverse and hit the brakes a bunch...sometimes you can hear them click if they're out to far.

So reading you're difficulty with getting the long spring from the parking brake cable to the arm...I use a long pair of side cutters and push the spring back with it and lightly hold the cable with it...then you can pop the end on the arm easy...the bottom spring for the adjuster can be tough...

So he did the power steering lines and oil cooler lines today. He got a little nuts and broke the oil testing line twisting it. So did a fast double flare and it was fixed! Also dove into some old tools for the tilt steering bolts that worked loose too. It was good to get in there and fix a few...

weld a nut to it and it'll come out...I think it's a 1/8 inch pipe thread that you hook a hose to that runs up to the drivers side radiator hose mount.

I know people use the sprays and such but I have always used graphite when dealing with the speedo heads....even the cables I'll puff a bunch of that in it too. It doesn't gum up like the oils do.