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If it was just a two tank system I'd suggest using the fuel tank selector valve from an M936 or M931 truck and just mounting the fuel pump on the upstream side of it so it can pull fuel. You could do the same for the other two tanks and simply plumb the output to fill the saddle tanks. Plumb the...

I was considering doing an automatic behind the 5.9 in mine, but it was cost prohibitive at the time. The Allison 1000/2000 series can be had with an SAE2 or SAE3 bellhousing, and parts are available to bolt them right up the the Cummins. In fact, my engine had one behind it when I bought it...

Maybe just because I have a lot of practice and the right equipment, but I can do it in about four hours by myself now.

I ran this one on old nasty fryer oil, gear oil, diesel, and motor oil. You'll find the Cat engines will be a lot more picky about the fuel in practice, and more expensive to repair by a longshot. Now, common rail 5.9L engines would certainly be more picky about fuel, but the 12 valve will burn...

If you kept up with my videos you should have an idea of what radiator and intercooler you can use.

In my opinion, any vehicle that uses air in the braking system should have clean, dry air for that system. It's only sensible that the air pack will last longer and be less susceptible to failure if provided with good air.

Looks like you got the hookup on a connector. You do need a pressure relief valve between the dryer and the compressor discharge. The relief valve on the case will only vent excess pressure in the case downstream of the dessicant package. The upstream relief valve apparently was an MWO on the A3...

I actually found that some of mine were originally galvanized under 13 layers of paint when I stripped and painted my truck and rims. Not all, but a few. Surprised me.

Well that's a shame. You have all incandescent lights right? Hoping I'll get a good long life out of mine with all LED signals.

I've mentioned that I've seen some that must be perfectly on the pointer to come out, some like a half tooth forward, some like a half tooth to the rear. What is consistent though is that if it isn't perfectly aligned where it wants to be, it isn't going to lift out without prying it out, and...

Push the jackshaft over to the side out of the way and tie it up with string or a piece of wire. You can also unbolt it from the transfer case and remove the shaft entirely if you want. That'll allow the transmission to move rearward far enough to fully evacuate the clutch and housing.

Hope you don't have a headgasket that didn't seal... that could also cause your ticking and make it run at an elevated temperature. You'd likely see other symptoms though.

I have one I was going to use when I did my Cummins swap but there is no practical place to install it even with the extra space. They are much bigger than they look in pictures. They also are designed to have fuel pulled through them, not pushed through them. Not ideal with the electric lift pump.

You need to get out on the road and load the engine hard to seat the rings. Idling is the worst thing for a freshly ringed engine. Do not idle it longer than necessary to reach operating temperature before a drive.

Very nice work overall.

Make sure all of your injector hold down bolts are tight. A slight compression leak around an injector will make a ticking noise that can be hard to locate.

I heated mine and bent them into a J profile to hold regular 13" blades and drilled a 1/16" hole through it to match corresponding holes in the blade clips and inserted tiny stainless screws, washers, and hex nuts. I'll try and remember to get a picture today while I'm out working.

Soak them in an acetone bath that covers the entire shoe overnight. Keep the container covered to keep evaporation to a minimum of course. This will in fact remove all of the oil. Some shoes that are really badly soaked may need to soak for several days. It will also remove all of the paint from...

https://youtu.be/w7svtxE4AwM

Should help https://youtu.be/Xen1EHfZMfE