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Sound like your on your way to 12 Volts. $$$ Some of the OEM guys are going to blow a fuse at a project like this... and a small wad of money. LOL 12 volt controller...No problem. Don't go cutting start & glow circuits out just yet. Guys got do their thing, CAMO

The switch is very important. 20 Amp rating on the RUN and 20 Amp on the start WITH 70 Amp inductive. Be very careful of knock-off sales. One way to tell is the plating. If it is shinny like polished brass...likely bad news. 75 clams for the real deal. See spec sheet. Keyed option wired...

You got two trucks? Need one kit for each rig. In Stock NOW. (y) (y) CAMO

Did you state keyed or standard military switch? Either way a fouled switch could hang in the start position and keep the solenoid engaged. On start, 24 volts goes straight thru box to starter solenoid coil. Any box if water damaged can have shorts and failure point. Not seeing it is hard...

Where did you get the plugs? 10 mm might be for the imported ChingV ??, CAMO

Naaaaa Just keep it as a box end for battery work. ⚡⚡ Let the sparks fly, CAMO

Rivnuts great in many application. Try these clip nuts. No special tool, just up size the hole a little. slips / locks right in. Get the heavy duty ones and check your edge distance to reach the hole. In this application... perrrfect. The cats meow, CAMO

Can someone point to and inform as to for the need to run cooler? 190 to 180. Needs me some ed u kation, CAMO

Did you check for proper fan operation? If the fan is locked up... system wonky, it would be hard to get it to heat up. Not seeing it IMO and a guess... fan is hung up due to all things fan operation. Never read was working correctly. (may have missed it) Or has been messed with...

SHHhhhhh............. No talking, CAMO

Yes to the cold blooded engines. Outside and 70...seems like forever at an idle. Got to drive. Reference only. Resistance +/- to get the military gauge to read shown value. Where did you get sender? You should be seeing 180 degrees something. Stock thermostat, and fan disengaged? 2.5 K...

To long and to fat for the "3916" Standard tie down kits, rope and the clip. Big bucks for a piece of rope and clip. The ball on the end of the whip is golden, CAMO

Not so much pinched or cut... but there are contact areas (small button) that when the windshield is up, come together. Age, rotting rubber and corrosion work at making for a bad connection. Many owners never see them or lower the windshield. Couple of these... connectors (top and bottom)...

May require a translation ? Basic principle in the valve and the delay -hysteresis of ackshueation. Prices for this technomygolly really sucks or blows hot air. Did I say that right? CAMO

Yep... that last statement say a lot here. Auction trucks and 15 year old tires... YEP Just know your equipment, CAMO

Exactly. Well stated. Know what it is and isn't. It's capability and yours. (y) If that was staged... Take look at the Yermo yard out back. Crash and burn like any other truck... maybe more so. Back to wrenching, CAMO

My old 86, M998. 6.2L. Clean and strong engine, 54K miles ? that's on the clock. No smoke unless at 6500 hundred feet. Lives at 2600 ft. no smoke down here. 70 degree start 45 PSI, When hot 25 to 35 running down the road. Hot idle 10 to 12. I have military and a mechanical guage, both...

Be safe... About the time the turbo kicks in, that tire is going to let loose. I know you made a funny about it, but this is what one get from the auctions. Let's WOT and see what it will do, CAMO

AND your Kelvar... That's how you do it per the reg's, CAMO

Plug likely needs replacing anyway. Sleep better knowing it new, CAMO