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Just tried this, no luck. Also checked fuse beside voltage regulator. Also, the Hz gauge is not reading either, engine speed does change when turning the frequency knob though.
Well it runs now, but doesn't make power anymore...
I did the check in the picture below, I was not getting voltage at terminal 5, and voltage elsewhere was low when cranking, about 15 volts. I hooked up slave cables to see if that helped and although it didn't start the first time, it did...
I have done some searching on the crank sensor, can't find anything on it either. I did adjust it in to where it was barely off the flywheel gear. I found something in the manual to check the "internal crank relay test', checking the governor control, so that's next on the list.
So I assume the crank sensor just senses the rotation of the engine and then allows power to the shutoff? I will check it shortly, thank you. I won't be firing it up anymore, I basically just did that to confirm in my head that was the reason it would not start.
Have I mentioned I hate looking through the manuals? I have been searching on liberated manuals but when I search for "MEP-804a" about 300 manuals come up. I am also hate when I download one, then spend time finding the troubleshooting section for it to tell me 'go to next level manual'. I...
I have a new to me 804a, when I got it home I put batteries in it and started it up, ran fine. I got it hooked up to the house and let it run under load for maybe an hour, no issues. Yesterday I went out to start it and it would crank but wouldn't start. I replaced the fuel filter (the...
For a true off-road truck I agree about having more options. For what I will be using this for it should not matter. I do want to eventually take the hoe/loader off and take it wheeling though to see how it does.
I agree. I will very likely add another valve like the one above for the lockers. The good thing about how I did it is I can just run the line off the 4x4 valve over to a locker valve, that way the locker cannot be engaged until it is in 4x4. The BAD thing about all this is it is a PAIN to...
I did not remove the regulator that feeds air to the diffs. If it hadn't been leaking when I got it I probably would have left it alone, but there was no sense (for me) to fix the air leaks (spending at a minimum $100 probably for new hand valve and control valve, and $300+ for the 4wd...
Still had 30psi this morning, this thing holds pressure great.
I installed a new 4wd selector, it is plumbed up with one valve, so when engaging 4x4 it locks the differentials as well. There may be times I could use 4x4 without locking the diffs but if that time comes and it is annoying I will...
Swapped the high pressure safety valve for the one off the other tank which fixed a leak. In over an hour it has leaked down from 105psi to about 90psi. I am pleased with that to say the least.
Here is my final plumbing, WAY simpler than the factory mess. The red line is the feed coming from the regulator which I was able to adjust down to release at about 105 instead of 120. Leaving the one line pictured disconnected effectively deactivates the trailer brake system. No more leaking...
I have not driven a FLU with anything other than 11r20 XZL's, have not driven it very fast yet, but they seem to do fine. I bought them because they were cheap. I will actually be changing to 12.00r20 XML's soon, not sure if they will fit without rubbing but I guess I will find out. My...
11r20's fit well. They are too narrow for factory wheels and took the tire guys LOTS of bead sealer grease to get them to inflate, I am sure you could inflate them much easier with ether, but that is illegal for tire shops to use.
Couple pairs of vise grips to clamp off two lines and I now have working brakes. Air splitter on transmission functions as well. Pressure on the gauge runs up to 120psi and then bleeds off a little, I may turn the regulator down since it is supposed to be 105psi. Brakes work good finally! I...
Go figure... The stuff I had talked of removing (trailer brake stuff) was actually where some of the leaks are coming from. The hand valve for the trailer brakes is leaking air both out the side of the plastic, and out of the plastic line that bleeds off air when you release the valve. If I...
Installed new regulator today. Plumbed in the other line on driver side as well but something is leaking up near brake booster so it would not build air. May work on it some more tomorrow.
Supposedly there are a lot more FLU's out there Wes claims, so the door probably hasn't closed yet. I have not messed with it anymore in the past couple days, but the one line I had connected does have a regulator on it before it feeds the lines going to the air throttle cylinder, and 4wd...
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