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I messed with it a little this morning and it appears to be filling the secondary system (I need to get some fittings to connect the primary lines to the tank). It got to 60psi and then the valve that sends air to the high-idle cylinder started blowing off air. The 'regulators' on the tanks...

I also don't understand why that if the 'unloader' or 'regulator' on the passenger frame rail 'regulates' the pressure, why is there (what appears to be) regulators on each tank on the drivers side rail? I have looked through the manuals and can't really figure out what any of this stuff does...

I know on a normal truck with air brakes the governor cuts the compressor 'on' and 'off', but how does the air system work on a FLU? It seems the compressor will just pump all the time, so where does the excess pressure go? I understand there is a unloader valve on the passenger side framerail...

If your hubs are louder than your engine, you have a problem.

A 6.5 in a civilian truck likely does have more power than a civilian 6.2. The 6.5 in a HMMWV is 'detuned' to basically match the output of the 6.2

Same horsepower either way. Most 6.2's I have had run stronger than the 6.5's. The 6.2's are not as prone to crack around the #8 cylinder either. You might can get a little bit from GP but if it runs good, a 6.2 is not a bad thing.

The 'aftermarket' roof is not aftermarket at all. It is actually just a stock roof that the hole has been welded up.

I have ~25 volts on terminal 3 (and 2 since they are connected internally in the switch) when it is running. I NEVER get 25v on either terminal 5 or 6 when flipping the switch though. Not sure if it is supposed to or not...

Finally messed with this generator some more.... Turns out the bulb for the Battle short switch was burned out, so that switch functions. The generator all the sudden started working yesterday, I hooked it up to the house and ran it a couple hours, now today it is back to not working... I...

I wouldn't worry too much about a M1123 from GovPlanet, but some of the engine rebuilders that sell "GEP" engines do use non authentic GEP blocks. USengines is one such company. They can't (or won't) verify the engines are NEW GEP blocks, and if you contact AM General (that makes GEP), they...

Take the bulb out of your turn signal lever and see if that fixes it. I have one with LED's that did the same thing and removing the bulb fixed it.

Fill it up to the fill plug for sure, not sure why the manual would say a pint-- unless that is how much one holds, but I was thinking it was closer to a quart. I never measure I just pour it in until they are full.

So your AC circuit interrupter switch DOES work? The light just doesn't work for it? (the little light directly above the switch). I don't think I will be that lucky with mine. My test lights do work.

So are you saying that it does send power down to the lugs, but that just the circuit interrupter switch doesn't light up? Seems it will be hard to put a load on it if you are not getting power to the lugs?

I stated that flipping the circuit interrupter and battle short does nothing, as in, with the engine running, you flip the switches and nothing happens. I've run through the steps in the manual I have and it was worthless, must be the 'beginner' series manual (pretty much just says take it to...

I understand it is not a good idea to run with battle short on. But it doesn't work with it on or off.

I have an 803a that runs great, but flipping the circuit interrupter switch or battle short switches does nothing, therefore power does not transfer down to the lugs on the front of the unit. The unit reads 25-50% load just running with no load at all, not sure what the deal with that is. I...

Are batteries still $50? Do you currently have any good batteries?

Most driveshaft shops (or at least the one we use regularly for our various other vehicles) have no issue welding on new yokes as needed. A bolt-in shaft would be nice though if the price was right.

Just take your driveshafts and have the front lengthened and the rear shortened at a local driveshaft shop. If you have a decent shop they should be able to do it for cheaper than you can buy a new shaft.