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Correct. A1's didn't begin production till mid-1999 or so I believe. A1R's started mid-2004.

@ckouba has them in both of the rears of his M1088 chassis and has nothing but positive things to say. I've driven his truck and I don't notice any behavior of any kind from the lockers on pavement or in tight corners. They may as well not be there from that perspective.

It's supposed to be inside the battery disconnect box. Do you have a battery disconnect box? A0 trucks did not have them.

In stock form the hand throttle won't work as a cruise control because it's not supposed to bring the engine up to near redline so it won't let you do highway speeds. But with the ECO hubs it probably kinda works. But won't disengage when you hit the brakes, etc. Using the hand throttle for such...

Lots of issues with just about everything that guy has to say. Clearly doesn't know his fourth point of contact from a hole in the ground. Please don't go on YouTube and talk about military :poop: like you know about military :poop: when you clearly haven't been in the military and aren't...

Maybe. But pulling the turret cover WILL work and you won't waste a bunch of time rooting around in a door that he likely has no knowledge of what it looks like on the interior and buying a slim jim tool is probably an order it online and wait for it. 10 minutes with a socket and the turret...

IDP? I must be having a senior moment. Not recalling what you are referring to. There shouldn't be any leaning curve to any of the engine sensors. The ECM has no ability to check any of them really - there's no redundancy and no exhaust sensors to use for feedback. The ECM expects all sensors...

Hhhhhmmm - you sure your grid heater is working? My experience down to the ether set temp (about 20) has been that if you wait till the grid heater light goes out they will start right up. I've never once had to run the starter more than one time. Even down to 16 degrees where the Ether kicked in.

Probably won't work since the failure is the rod you are looking for with that tool has come loose on one end or the other typically. You might be able to catch the arm of the latch but it's pretty short.

That's a typo in the schematic I assume. Or maybe it was an early acronym for Load Sensing/System(?) Control Device or some such. Either way it's the same part and now referred to as the Load Battery Control Device. See the diodes inside it? Sounds to me like you have a 24v supply wired to the...

I was taught to do peckerhead connections with bolt/nut/lockwashers and cambric tape, splicing tape, and finish with electrical tape. Never had one rub through or come loose 🤷‍♂️

Not familiar with this "LSDC" - can you show this to me on the schematic? Are you sure you don't mean LBCD (Load Battery Control Device)? If so that's not a voltage regulator...... the dual voltages come from tapping the center of the battery bank for 12v and the full battery bank for 24v so if...

Insignificant differences - seal types and regular vs. break-away torque limiting bolts, etc. Meritor has updated the u-joints a few times. The latest ones claim they are good for 100,000 miles between greasing (wouldn't do this in our high-angle application), and they now come with the...

The military has used just about every manufacturer you can think of to supply them. Currently the one's being supplied are Meritor and they have the break-away torque limiting bolts.

The CAT dealer wanted Chris to talk to CAT engineering to see if that would work or what he would have to do. The 3126 uses the round top HEUI pump and I'm thinking the only difference would be the fitting at the pump and possibly the fitting location relative to the block port. The block port...

The switch in my truck (A1R, C7) acts strangely in that sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Acts like a software issue where it's not monitoring the pin that's being activated often enough. Sometimes it will activate high idle and sometimes it just ignores the switch. And when taking it...

@Lostchain was telling me about this effect. It seems to be a quirk of the 3126 engine computer. The C7 trucks don't do this. Their idle is the same at all temps on my truck and every other one I've worked with. I'm not sure what the idea was with that programming.

Not sure but could be with some combination of the cruise control stuff. When the trans is in neutral you can control idle speed in small increments with the cruise control accelerate and decelerate buttons.

Have him enable your cruise control. It takes 2 minutes.

Incidentally - I asked a fellow Motorpool veteran of 25 years and he laughed at me and said in all his time he has NEVER run into that problem...... :poop: I've had my actuator rods pop out on a couple of occasions. I fix them at the earliest opportunity. I carry spare rod clips.