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Everyone here understands what you are trying to say - and it WOULD NOT WORK. What you are proposing locks the hub to the outer gear, which then is locked to the inner gear via the planetaries, which in turn is locked to the AXLE TUBE. This renders the entire system immovable. In other words IT...
Yet again you show in painful clarity that you fail to understand what's happening in the hubs. 🤦♂️
Someone please help me out with explaining this. I've lost the will.....
You asked a question - when it was explained this would be very difficult by two members you made assertions of it's simplicity and further assumptions. By doubling down on the comment it was clear I needed to explain in further detail what disastrous consequences would befall the person that...
You don't understand how the planetary system works. You can't just couple the outer gear to the hub cover - you must also decouple the inner gear from the splined axle tube. If you don't you will IMMEDIATELY destroy parts inside the hub. Remember that the axle is spinning at twice the speed of...
All of the 3126 and C7 maps are 860 ft/lbs of torque. The C7 370 HP map is 931 ft/lbs
You will definitely run out of traction first. I don't believe the trucks are even rated for a 45 degree slope - probably would encounter engine lubrication problems approaching those kinds of angles.
Unfortunately each color and 4 point vs. 5 point is going to have different NSN's and they don't list them all. Could get into Fed-Log and use mastercraft's cage code to try to figure them all out.
Also unfortunately - it says "Call for more info!" and I've done that - the people on the other...
That is the center seat. It mounts to the back wall of the A1P2 cab and the seat bottom folds up leaving a standing area for the gunner.
All the NSN's are listed on Mastercraft's Defense site:
http://www.mastercraftdefense.com/
In my career as a professional mechanic and shop owner I have seen plenty of harmonic balancer failures - more than I have fingers and toes to keep track. GM included. The rubber fails and as others have pointed out the rubber ages and it's harmonic properties change - just like the ATI...
I daily my truck and while there is a slight but noticeable increase in power as it warms up (it doesn't take long - especially with the block heater), I don't have any resistance to rolling down my slightly inclined driveway. I could go out there right now and release my parking brake (running...
Just pull them off and read the numbers. Any bearing shop can likely match them up. You will probably need a press to change them out if they are serviceable.
I wouldn't spend a dime to fix the 100a alternator. They were grossly undersized for the application. Any money spent toward the charging system should go toward upgrading it to the 260a alternator or one of the other options that are out there - the 200a HMMWV alternator, or a commercial 24v...
If you have 28v at the regulator E terminal and the 28v LED is off that points to a bad regulator according to the Niehoff troubleshooting docs:
https://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG14_uid252021119472.pdf
Pretty common failure item on the 100a alternators.
14v is pulled from the center of the 28v windings so in general you can't have 14v if the alternator isn't making 28v. Where are you testing the 28v from?
I wouldn't trust anything from HF to hold up a 20k lb truck.
The military uses these for FMTV's:
https://www.ccmilitary.com/products/heavy-duty-jack-stand-7-ton
You just need the alternator and bracket and longer serpentine belt and it will bolt on - very easy - takes less than an hour typically. I am working on getting a few of the alternator brackets and I do have a tested 2016 model 260a for sale so I might be able to set you up with a swap kit.