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Sweet!

Pretty simple with a one wire sender. This works for any gauge. Ohm check the wire from the sender to the gauge. If that’s good, with the wire disconnected from the sender and the gauge supplied with power, the gauge should be pegged on the high side. With the wire disconnected from the sender...

You could also siphon off some of the fuel into a clear jar to check the clarity. If you have some bad fuel, you would usually see it that way. Also, is it possible that you have a leak on the suction side of that lift pump? Have you pulled the dipstick when the engine was running? Blow-by? Just...

I just realized that it’s only two cylinders! So it probably won’t even run on only one cylinder. I suppose that one cylinder could be weak but still providing some power.

That’s frustrating, I know. My experience with these 8XX series is just like yours. The electric lift pumps are great because they normally self-bleed. Could you tell if it was firing on all cylinders?

I wouldn’t want to use the self resetting circuit breaker that I mentioned earlier in an AC circuit without having it secured and encased. Something about having exposed terminals in an AC circuit doesn’t appeal to me😳 120 VAC hurts! 24 VDC doesn’t hurt at all🙂

You’re correct, these are for DC circuits only. They won’t work in an AC circuit.

Let’s try that again🙃...

I posted this item on another thread this morning. They’re great for doing exactly what you guys are talking about…finding...

They can also be used when checking for dead- shorts. You can connect them across the main circuit breaker (with it open) and start disconnecting items one by one. When this self resetting circuit breaker no longer trips, then you’ll know you found your dead short.

I’m a big fan of these self resetting circuit breakers...

Hard to believe, but we’re almost 1/2 way there to Christmas. Santa is coming!

That’s awesome! It could then also be used to lift these units up onto a sufficiently supported working platform to get you up off of the ground when working on them😎

I had to remove the gen head on one 803A unit to replace the rear crankshaft seal. As I recall, the bearing on that unit was perfectly reusable and it came off of with the bearing support spider.

Actually, it looks like the outer race isn’t in as far as it was either. So in that case I’m with you. It’s probably ok as is. But again, hoping that someone with some experience with this bearing will chime in. It’s pretty awesome though. With these gen heads this is the only wear part to replace!

I see what you mean when comparing this photo with the one before you removed the bearing. The inner race of the bearing appears to be sticking out off of the rotor shaft ever so slightly. I’m just wondering if you have a brass drift thats the same size as the inner race. You may be able to dive...

So the other part of this is I’ve never had to replace this bearing. Is the inner race of the bearing the interference fit on the rotor shaft? Or is the outer race of the bearing the interference fit on the bearing support? Or are both the inner and outer races an interference fit on their...

I should have elaborated a little more. Heating causes expansion, while supercooling causes contraction. That’s what we do when assembling interference parts. The outer part is heated to expand it some while the inner part is supercooled to contract it some. When the temperature of both parts is...

Just wondering what the indications were that told you the bearing was bad. Noisy I suppose? Hoping the new bearing goes on easily for you. Normally on an interference fit the outer part gets heated and the inner part gets cooled to make them go together without too much fuss. In this case the...

Thank you!